I was short of time last night so along with finding the step infill pieces, I only managed to assemble the front coal plate and buffer beam.
I was right in my assumption that there would be part for the step infill – Oops!!
Well, after all the discussion and mental hand wringing by yours truly I do believe that I have cracked it.
I soldered some scrap etch into each side of the front step of the tender and sods law dictates now that I have I will find suitable parts included (I confess that I didn’t even check).
It’s all dry fitted at this point and before soldering I do need to check that the tank vents will fit – I may have to straighten the curve a bit to create a flat ledge for the vents to sit on but if I do I will report back.
Although it didn’t do anything in the competition I am really pleased with how it came out and I don’t regret the decision to weather it.
Last weekend I was demonstrating my Silhouette Cutter at Guildex for a couple of days. I also, as has been my habit for the last few years, entered a few items in the Modelling Competition. I had three entries in the rolling stock section and to my surprise and delight two of them took 2nd and 3rd places – First was quite rightly won by a full breakdown train.
Rather foolishly on the day I clipped the opening end door shut on the NBR wagon so it’s best feature was lost on the judges. As it turned out if it had done something it would have only displaced one of the other entries so nothing lost.
The Highly Commended entry is now in the small adds because being in BR livery it doesn’t really fit with my grouping era models.
Whether you are planning a visit to Guildex or not here is a preview of what’s on view on my Silhouette Cutter Demo on Stand D10
All of them either made completely from or kits enhanced by additional parts cut on the Silhouette
Well I have to admit I have reached a bit of the kit instructions that have really stumped me…
“Take coal space sides, note the handling and drill 1.85mm at half etched pops if fitting scoop and tank vents, then fold so that the sides fit into the coal space front plate, tack into position taking care to be square to front plate. Sit the assembly into it’s slot in the sole plate and tack onto position square ‘each way'”
I found the parts easily enough and put them together how I interpreted the instructions but then found that there was nowhere/way that they would fit.
There is a plan and top down outline drawing supplied but I can’t figure out from which bit is the coal space front plate or which orientation it fits in.
My only saving grace is that there is one of these tenders attached to the C1 Atlantic at Locomotion so I plan to see if I can get aboard it when I am there next weekend to see how the coal chute/plate is made up on the real thing.
I am on my way to Telford tomorrow so I will have better things to think about until mid next week.
Further work on the tender last night got one of the more difficult bits behind me – bending the one-piece tank sides/end.
However, I will start off with a bit of a gotcha! The instructions tell you if modelling post 1940 to drill out two etched dimples on the rear right hand side of the tender for hand rails that must have been fitted to some tenders at some point.
Having done it I immediately started to think I wonder. Sure, enough when I looked at photos of 64206 which is the loco being modelled I noted no rear handrail….
So, I opened out the holes to 1.55mm and soldered some stubs of rod in – this is it from the inside
And from the outside – thankfully nothing shows
Next the tender sides are rectangular but on the real thing on the tender that I am working on there are cut outs for a handrail as in this example by Ron Bowyer.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/okJtkh][img]https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5561/14663148970_50f779a2c3_k.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/okJtkh]GNR/LNER Gresley "J6" class 0-6-0 No. 64223.[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/93456400@N04/]Ron Bowyer[/url], on Flickr
I have to confess to struggling with the instructions on this point so I went my own way. There are sections of etched beading to represent this and having worked out for myself how I believe they are meant to fit I tacked them to each end
This allowed me to scribe a line to cut/file to and then I unsoldered them and removed the bits that needed removing. Time will tell as to whether what I have done is correct but studying various photos it looks right.
The next job was to drill out one of two dimples for the front handrail knob – these are design for a short rail where the top is cut out as I have done or a long rail where the side is left at full height. I drilled out the lower ones.
Then I carefully marked out where the first bend should be and then bent it using my Metalsmith Drilling table with a rod slightly smaller than the required bend clamped to it.
If this sort of thing scares you take heart. I didn’t get it right first time, I just calmly straightened it with fingers and thumbs finally using smooth bladed pliers to finish off and them remeasured and tried again. The first side (the one in the photos) I got right on the second attempt. The other side took three goes…. but I got there.
Next up is to solder in the bulkhead.
Where the instructions are really lacking is that they refer to parts but don’t number them so you are constantly searching the scans of the etches and the index to find out which part you are looking for – the scans are labelled with part numbers and there is an index but it would be so much better if the instructions had part numbers alongside the text.
Then lastly solder the side/end piece to the footplate.
Last night saw the Southern Brake Van finished. Anyone who hasn’t used Glue N Glaze before I can thoroughly recommend it.
I added it to small adds and it sold fairly quickly.
During last week I took a little time out on a couple of evenings to get the top coat of paint on ready for transfers.
A more knowledgeable gent than I also pointed out that I had made an error with one of the brake linkages so I will have a look at sorting that.
I then blackened the buffers and added a decent set of 3 link couplings.
To blacken the buffer shanks I heated then to cherry red with the microflame and dunked them in a small pot of oil (I used 3 in 1 but apparently any oil even cooking oil will do the job). When cool take them out and wrap in kitchen paper to soak up all the oil and leave until the next day when they are ready for fitting – Please note this method is only any good for steel buffer heads
I fitted together all the motion parts in readiness for building it up.