Double Glazing!

In between refitting seats to the Gresley all 3rd I glazed and weathered a couple of my £1 bargain buys.

1927 Talbot Van

1927 Talbot Van

1927 Talbot Van

First is a 1927 Talbot Van, I am not sure that I have posted this one before. When I got it, it was in a very toy like yellow livery with red writing for a bakery. What I had in mind was a [s]second[/s] ‘umpteenth’ hand vehicle that had been hand painted with ex military khaki and subsequently neglected.

1912 Ford Model T

1912 Ford Model T

1912 Ford Model T

1912 Ford Model T

I reasoned that the LNER would keep theirs in better condition.

Gladiator B16-1 lot’s of little details

It seems like a while since I updated this thread so it must have been a good holiday.
Time has been spent since getting back on the little things that take time and don’t seem to evidence much progress but all add to the overall picture.
I have started looking at the upperworks starting with the cab fittings. A lot of the detail is cast on to the backhead and there are some castings supplied. Sadly a lot of the detail is a bit low relief so I suspect that I will remove and remake most of it.
I add some fine brass wire to the gauges

Gladiator B16-1 Gauges

I also made up some washout plug bases these are two layers of brass with a stub of square section brass inserted. The plan is that this will be soldered behind the holes in the firebox and then half etched surrounds soldered over them. A length of square section was included in the box but I am unsure as to whether this comes with the kit or it was provided by the owner.

Gladiator B61-1 – scratch built washout plugs

I also soldered the elbow provided onto a length of tube for the vacuum ejector pipe.

Braking News, Revisited, No it’s not Revisionist History!

As described in the last post I made an error in the assembly of the brakes this was due to a combination of things that may not necessarily affect other builders of the kit – somewhat basic instructions, combined with my lack of knowledge of the prototype and struggling to find a photo of a B16/1 that shows how they fit. And finally because the kit had been started lots of the etches had been cut up and finding some of the bits has been a bit challenging – The second lever that I needed to connect the brake pull rod to was attached to a small scrap of etch that I found by chance in the bottom of the box.

Hopefully this will assist anyone when they get to this point in their kit.

NB my subscription to PhotoBucket seems to be retaining my images at present so I will continue to use it. If it goes pear shaped all the images are available on Flickr and I do have back ups so I can re-instate them on this thread at least.

This is where I had got to in my ignorance last week.

Gladiator B16-1 brakes when done wronglys

Gladiator B16-1 brakes when done wrongly

This is what it should have looked like – this is a crop from a photo of an NER V Class, which is referred to in the instructions as having the same backhead details as the B16 it was only after spending sometime studying the backhead that I realised that it also showed how the brake gear fits at the cab end.

Then this is the result of last night’s efforts – I had to add a representation of a slack adjuster to make up for my shortening the shaft previously

Gladiator B16-1 revised brake arrangement

Gladiator B16-1 revised brake arrangement

Finally not the best shot in the world but it does look more like the real thing now

Gladiator B16-1 revised brake arrangement

Braking News!!!!!

In my last post on the subject I said
“I also need to shorten the rod that connects to brake the the link below the cab too. The plan is to solder a piece of scrap to the end with the boss on and file a second boss which will allow me to create a forked joint once I shorten the rod.”

Which I duly did on Wednesday night. In fact I was feeling pretty pleased with myself until this morning when by chance I found a photo which showed me exactly how the brake gear should fit at the cab end.

It will be good news to David (Hill) that in fact you don’t need to shorten the rod to the cab rear at all, you just need to connect it to the right lever from the cross shaft.

All being well I should have it corrected on Monday evening and I will post before and after photos to show how I got it wrong initially. In the hope that it will prevent someone else from making the same mistake. I have say that the instructions are lacking in this area being of the ‘fit parts X,Y,Z,’ styke and an email to Steve Barnfield although it elicited a response didn’t help because he couldn’t remember how it fitted.

To give Steve due credit he did offer to assist in person if I was in his area but I am a long way from him.

“Pound Shop” value well not quite but only a quid anyway

I thought that I had posted photo’s of a Model T tanker truck that I picked up for a pound but perhaps I didn’t.

1912 Ford Model T Tanker

1912 Ford Model T Tanker

In between other modelling projects I have resprayed it into LNER blue and added some transfers and a light waft of weathering.

LNER Model T 2 Ton Tanker Truck

LNER Model T 2 Ton Tanker Truck

LNER Model T 2 Ton Tanker Truck

LNER Model T 2 Ton Tanker Truck

I just need to glaze it now.

Cut and Shut with Kirk Sides

In response to a query on the GOG forum I promised that I would take a photo of some Kirk sides that I needed to cut and shut and repair the beading on – The beading is Plastruct 0.8mm half round.

It looks like Ian has now run out of the colour pigment that he used to use to colour the LNER coach pieces because they came in white so I had to give them a quick spray to get them to show anything.

Kirk BY120 Sides

Kirk BY120 Sides

I have marked which beading I replaced with a red square. For some reason the top one picked up some much in the solvent (Limonene) which has made it look a bit ragged in the photo but I am sure that it will disappear once I apply the teak varnish to it.

Although it doesn’t look it in the photo the base colour is orange.

Gladiator B16/1 – fitting the brakes

After an exciting weekend doing other things I got back to the B16 last night and cracked on with fitting the brakes.

I wound a few layers of masking tape around the wheels to both space the brake shoes away from the wheels and to help reduce the risk of rusting from soldering with the wheels in place.

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Gladiator B6-1 Brakes

I was forewarned by a gent on RMweb who has recently built a 4mm version of this kit that the length of the yokes that fit to the brake spreaders is a bit long and so it was with the 7mm version. I used a diamond disk in the Dremel to cut a slot in the brake spreader to allow the fork in the yoke to slip back and effectively shorten the rod. – see photo above.

Gladiator B6-1 Brakes

I also need to shorten the rod that connects to brake the the link below the ab too. The plan is to solder a piece of scrap to the end with the boss on and file a second boss which will allow me to create a forked joint once I shorten the rod.

Gladiator B6-1 Brakes

Gladiator B16-1 Scratchbuilt Oilers

A slight diversion from work on the chassis has had me looking at the oil boxes that are quite prominent on the sides of the frames above the footplate.

Although I have some castings they are too long and wouldn’t cut down very well so I decided to have a bash at making some from scratch.

I measured the length of three together and marked it off on a length of square bar and then marked a line 1mm from the top, along what will be the front edge. Next I filed the marked section down to the line at the front while maintaining the full height at the back. – To give me a sloping top.

A strip of scrap etch to form a lid and another length with two rivets punched in either end forms the mounting bracket.

Before cutting each individual oil box off the bar I drilled holes for the pipes in the bottom and then added some 08mm OD tube and length of fine brass beading wire to represent the oil pipes. Three down three more to make for the other side but at least two of them don’t need the tube/pipes fitted because they sit on the splasher top.

Gladiator B16-1 Scratchbuilt Oilers

Gladiator B16/1 Loco Brakes

With the tender virtually complete my return from Doncaster saw a start made on detailing the loco chassis. I add the springs to the drivers and then looked at the brake gear.
The instructions are along the lines of fit parts…. with a couple of build photos to assist with the general positioning.

Thankfully looking at prototype pictures helped answer most questions. the first being how the hanger mounts fit
There is a better view in Yeadon but I found this and it saved me scanning the book.

As with some older kits, the forks in the etches for the rods connecting the brake spreaders are a little over etched so needed bushing.

Gladiator B16-1 Loco Brakes

By accident or design some scrap from the chassis etches folded over the spreader was just the right thickness to fill the gap.

Gladiator B16-1 Loco Brakes

They just need soldering together once fitted.

More Gladiator B16/1 Tender detailing, but it’s almost there now

This week has been a good one at the bench seeing the tender almost complete.

Gladiator B16-1 Tender Details

Gladiator B16-1 Tender Details

Gladiator B16-1 Tender Details

The brake/water scoop standards rotate and you now need to unscrew them to get the chassis from the body.

When refitting the chassis during testing the cranks on the bottom of the shafts of the standards I realised that the brake rods were catching on the outer frame and had held one end of the chassi from fitting flat to the underside of the body. There is a plate with a slot in it in which two slots in the front ends of the inner chassis engage this was about 1.5 too high. To cure it I adjusted the offending brake spreaders and the rods inwards and then with the chassis upside down and engaged in the slots I used the microflame to run around the etches of the plate while pressing on the underside of the chassis with a block of wood. After a few moments the plate eased slowly downwards into the correct position and when the solder set again it was as it should have been.

Gladiator B16-1 Tender Details

As far as I can tell there is just the vacuum pipe and the axleboxes/spring castings to fit. I may also make the central ‘buffer’ from styrene but I will see how it goes when I test the running to see if it needs it.

Next it’s on to detailing the chassis before tackling the body details.

Gladiator B16-1 More Tender Details

Due to having a lot on at work I haven’t been able to get back to the B16 until Sunday afternoon and yesterday.

Still good progress has been made since then with most of the tender detailing cracked. I found that the rear tender flare overlay wasn’t on straight to that had to come off and be straightened.

The coal space is still loose until I get the brake/water scoop standards in place – I figure it will be easier to drill the floor if it lifts out.

Gladiator B16-1 Tender Details

Note the longer hand rail at the front of the tender. This seems to have been a feature of a few of the B16 tenders and thankfully you can make it out on the one photo of 61450 that I have found to date.

Gladiator B16-1 Tender Details

The small steps were a bit of a fiddle but worth the effort I think.

Gladiator B16-1 Tender Details

Gladiator B16-1 Tender Details

Kirk 51 foot All 3rd – interior details

This last weekend saw a little more progress on the Kirk coaches.

The seating is assembled for the all third and the roof made ready to fit.

Conversations on a few forums around how to attach the roof, have had the side effect of making me think about fitting passengers (which neither Don or I had considered/discussed). Due to me having already glued the floor in ( I won’t do that on future builds) I was exploring unobtrusive ways that I might make the room removable.

Having consulted Don who agreed that we should make provision for the fitting of passengers. – Albeit not that many due to the decline of passengers using the line in Don’s modelled period. I was still mulling over various ways of fixing the roof when I realised that the roof ends don’t quite match the profile of the ends of the coach. This is due to the way that Ian makes them by vacuum forming. When I say don’t quite fit I am sure that the discrepancy will be taken up by gluing the roofs on as originally planned. But if I attempted to screw them on in any way, I would be left with an unsightly gap at either end.

A bit more head scratching and looking at the way that windows fit I decided that I could make it so that the windows cannot be dislodged by handling (which was another fear of gluing the roof on) and that if I fitted some passengers before gluing the roof down, it would mean that Don didn’t need to gain access to do it later.

I had some Slaters seated passengers to hand and they provided a welcome distraction and rekindling of interest,which I have to confess due to pressures at work was waning a little.

Kirk 51 foot All 3rd – interior details

Kirk 51 foot All 3rd – interior details

While the painting of said passengers (particularly the faces) isn’t as good as some, I am pleased with how they have come out and they will certainly pass muster inside the gloomy interior of the coach once matt varnished.

7mm scale seated passengers

If you wonder why they are sat above the box instead of on it, that’s because I have inserted a length of plastic rod to enable me to old them while painting and and it will help in making them securely fastened to the seats when fitted.

Kirk Gresley Coaches 51ft All 3rd – Underframe fittings

I got a little more done on the All 3rd this weekend. – Sole bars, footsteps, battery boxes and queen posts all got fitted. I also did a bit more work on fitting the roof of the BG but there’s nothing really to see. I also got the mounting brackets fitted on the dynamo but I forgot to bring it home for photos (not that it looks any different to the one that I did for the BG to be fair).

Kirk Gresley Coaches – 51ft All 3rd

Kirk Gresley Coaches 51ft All 3rd – Underframe fittings

Kirk Gresley Coaches 51ft All 3rd – Underframe fittings

NBR/LNER Bogie CCT Van

In between building the Kirk coaches I have also been assembling the other exNBR bogie CCT. This one will be finished in LNER livery for my own stock.

In NBR and LNER days the side panels were all half beaded this has been added using 0.8mm half round Plastruct strip.

NBR-LNER Bogie CCT

Although I will be making the sole bars from plastruct strip they are too long to make it out of one length so it will need to be joined.

In order that this isn’t visible on the finished model I plan to draw up and cut some 10 thou overlays. Which I plan to rivet in the same manner as the tar tank. This is in the hope that it will save me from drilling, cutting and inserting the many stubs of rod that would otherwise make up the multitude of bolt/rivet heads visible on the sole bars.

Gladiator B16-1 Tender fittings – Tool Boxes etc.

Another session last night brought the tender a little nearer to completion.

I managed to get all the whitemetal castings soldered on. I still haven’t decided whether to fit the small steps at either side of the coal chute or not the jury is still out.

I haven’t soldered the coal space/tender front in yet because I want to be able to get at the hand rails, lamp irons etc from the back before I do, then the last job [s]will[/s] should be making the corners for the flares.

Gladiator B16-1 Tender fittings – tools boxes etc

Gladiator B16-1 Tender fittings – tools boxes etc

Gladiator B16-1 Brake and Water Scoop Standards – An Exercise in Drilling and Filing

Yesterday having cut short a long weekend up north by yours truly forgetting to take his medication along I looked more closely at the brake and water scoop standards. I had more dialogue on RMweb with MikeMeg on the subject last week and he had remade the 4mm versions. I thought initially that although slightly on the fine side that the castings looked usable. – By fine they are quite slender in appearance whereas the photo posted earlier show them to be quite chunky, especially where the mounting pieces.

These are the castings provided.

Gladiator B16-1 Brake and Water Scoop Standards

The problem came when testing them against the tender front (stuck in place temporarily with bluetac).

Gladiator B16-1 Brake and Water Scoop Standards

Despite my cutting them off the sprue with as much length as possible, they are short in the column length

I couldn’t see any immediate way of extending the column* A better person than me might have been able cut it of and drill out the fixing brackets but they looked a bit on the fine side for me to be confident that I could achieve it so I decided to have a go at making some replacements.

Now I have to be honest at this point and say that this really became a test exercise to see what I could achieve with my Proxxon mini pillar drill with the X-Y table attachment. I have been looking for something to try it out in anger, having only drilled out 4 buffer stocks since I got it at Christmas.

Gladiator B16-1 Brake and Water Scoop Standards

Gladiator B16-1 Brake and Water Scoop Standards

Gladiator B16-1 Brake and Water Scoop Standards

They took me all day to make but I really enjoyed it and I have parts roughed out to make a couple more for a build for myself at some point. to give an idea of scale/chunkiness the new columns are made from 1.6mm rod.

*Thinking about it afterwards I could possibly have joined an extension piece onto the castings where they go through the wooden floor extension that’s shown on the photo of the tender front.

Gladiator B16-1 Coal Plate – Details (Part II)

Following on from a comment about not being able get at the coal by Jim Snowden on the guild forum, further work was done last night to represent the sliding plate on the front of the coal chute.

Without taking the front back off and doing major surgery I had to employ a little subterfuge to give the impression of a sliding plate but I feel that once painted it will look the part.

Gladiator B16-1 Coal Plate – details

Gladiator B16-1 Coal Plate – details

I also managed to get the front upper coal plate fitted and the lifting rings.

Gladiator B16-1 Coal Plate – details

I still need to add the steps to the sides of the coal chute but that’s about as far as I will go on this build (I keep forgetting “straight from the box”…) – I have lots of ideas for future builds of my own though.