Cut and Shut with Kirk Sides

In response to a query on the GOG forum I promised that I would take a photo of some Kirk sides that I needed to cut and shut and repair the beading on – The beading is Plastruct 0.8mm half round.

It looks like Ian has now run out of the colour pigment that he used to use to colour the LNER coach pieces because they came in white so I had to give them a quick spray to get them to show anything.

Kirk BY120 Sides

Kirk BY120 Sides

I have marked which beading I replaced with a red square. For some reason the top one picked up some much in the solvent (Limonene) which has made it look a bit ragged in the photo but I am sure that it will disappear once I apply the teak varnish to it.

Although it doesn’t look it in the photo the base colour is orange.

Gladiator B16/1 – fitting the brakes

After an exciting weekend doing other things I got back to the B16 last night and cracked on with fitting the brakes.

I wound a few layers of masking tape around the wheels to both space the brake shoes away from the wheels and to help reduce the risk of rusting from soldering with the wheels in place.

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Gladiator B6-1 Brakes

I was forewarned by a gent on RMweb who has recently built a 4mm version of this kit that the length of the yokes that fit to the brake spreaders is a bit long and so it was with the 7mm version. I used a diamond disk in the Dremel to cut a slot in the brake spreader to allow the fork in the yoke to slip back and effectively shorten the rod. – see photo above.

Gladiator B6-1 Brakes

I also need to shorten the rod that connects to brake the the link below the ab too. The plan is to solder a piece of scrap to the end with the boss on and file a second boss which will allow me to create a forked joint once I shorten the rod.

Gladiator B6-1 Brakes

Gladiator B16-1 Scratchbuilt Oilers

A slight diversion from work on the chassis has had me looking at the oil boxes that are quite prominent on the sides of the frames above the footplate.

Although I have some castings they are too long and wouldn’t cut down very well so I decided to have a bash at making some from scratch.

I measured the length of three together and marked it off on a length of square bar and then marked a line 1mm from the top, along what will be the front edge. Next I filed the marked section down to the line at the front while maintaining the full height at the back. – To give me a sloping top.

A strip of scrap etch to form a lid and another length with two rivets punched in either end forms the mounting bracket.

Before cutting each individual oil box off the bar I drilled holes for the pipes in the bottom and then added some 08mm OD tube and length of fine brass beading wire to represent the oil pipes. Three down three more to make for the other side but at least two of them don’t need the tube/pipes fitted because they sit on the splasher top.

Gladiator B16-1 Scratchbuilt Oilers

Gladiator B16/1 Loco Brakes

With the tender virtually complete my return from Doncaster saw a start made on detailing the loco chassis. I add the springs to the drivers and then looked at the brake gear.
The instructions are along the lines of fit parts…. with a couple of build photos to assist with the general positioning.

Thankfully looking at prototype pictures helped answer most questions. the first being how the hanger mounts fit
There is a better view in Yeadon but I found this and it saved me scanning the book.

As with some older kits, the forks in the etches for the rods connecting the brake spreaders are a little over etched so needed bushing.

Gladiator B16-1 Loco Brakes

By accident or design some scrap from the chassis etches folded over the spreader was just the right thickness to fill the gap.

Gladiator B16-1 Loco Brakes

They just need soldering together once fitted.

More Gladiator B16/1 Tender detailing, but it’s almost there now

This week has been a good one at the bench seeing the tender almost complete.

Gladiator B16-1 Tender Details

Gladiator B16-1 Tender Details

Gladiator B16-1 Tender Details

The brake/water scoop standards rotate and you now need to unscrew them to get the chassis from the body.

When refitting the chassis during testing the cranks on the bottom of the shafts of the standards I realised that the brake rods were catching on the outer frame and had held one end of the chassi from fitting flat to the underside of the body. There is a plate with a slot in it in which two slots in the front ends of the inner chassis engage this was about 1.5 too high. To cure it I adjusted the offending brake spreaders and the rods inwards and then with the chassis upside down and engaged in the slots I used the microflame to run around the etches of the plate while pressing on the underside of the chassis with a block of wood. After a few moments the plate eased slowly downwards into the correct position and when the solder set again it was as it should have been.

Gladiator B16-1 Tender Details

As far as I can tell there is just the vacuum pipe and the axleboxes/spring castings to fit. I may also make the central ‘buffer’ from styrene but I will see how it goes when I test the running to see if it needs it.

Next it’s on to detailing the chassis before tackling the body details.

Gladiator B16-1 More Tender Details

Due to having a lot on at work I haven’t been able to get back to the B16 until Sunday afternoon and yesterday.

Still good progress has been made since then with most of the tender detailing cracked. I found that the rear tender flare overlay wasn’t on straight to that had to come off and be straightened.

The coal space is still loose until I get the brake/water scoop standards in place – I figure it will be easier to drill the floor if it lifts out.

Gladiator B16-1 Tender Details

Note the longer hand rail at the front of the tender. This seems to have been a feature of a few of the B16 tenders and thankfully you can make it out on the one photo of 61450 that I have found to date.

Gladiator B16-1 Tender Details

The small steps were a bit of a fiddle but worth the effort I think.

Gladiator B16-1 Tender Details

Gladiator B16-1 Tender Details

Kirk 51 foot All 3rd – interior details

This last weekend saw a little more progress on the Kirk coaches.

The seating is assembled for the all third and the roof made ready to fit.

Conversations on a few forums around how to attach the roof, have had the side effect of making me think about fitting passengers (which neither Don or I had considered/discussed). Due to me having already glued the floor in ( I won’t do that on future builds) I was exploring unobtrusive ways that I might make the room removable.

Having consulted Don who agreed that we should make provision for the fitting of passengers. – Albeit not that many due to the decline of passengers using the line in Don’s modelled period. I was still mulling over various ways of fixing the roof when I realised that the roof ends don’t quite match the profile of the ends of the coach. This is due to the way that Ian makes them by vacuum forming. When I say don’t quite fit I am sure that the discrepancy will be taken up by gluing the roofs on as originally planned. But if I attempted to screw them on in any way, I would be left with an unsightly gap at either end.

A bit more head scratching and looking at the way that windows fit I decided that I could make it so that the windows cannot be dislodged by handling (which was another fear of gluing the roof on) and that if I fitted some passengers before gluing the roof down, it would mean that Don didn’t need to gain access to do it later.

I had some Slaters seated passengers to hand and they provided a welcome distraction and rekindling of interest,which I have to confess due to pressures at work was waning a little.

Kirk 51 foot All 3rd – interior details

Kirk 51 foot All 3rd – interior details

While the painting of said passengers (particularly the faces) isn’t as good as some, I am pleased with how they have come out and they will certainly pass muster inside the gloomy interior of the coach once matt varnished.

7mm scale seated passengers

If you wonder why they are sat above the box instead of on it, that’s because I have inserted a length of plastic rod to enable me to old them while painting and and it will help in making them securely fastened to the seats when fitted.

Kirk Gresley Coaches 51ft All 3rd – Underframe fittings

I got a little more done on the All 3rd this weekend. – Sole bars, footsteps, battery boxes and queen posts all got fitted. I also did a bit more work on fitting the roof of the BG but there’s nothing really to see. I also got the mounting brackets fitted on the dynamo but I forgot to bring it home for photos (not that it looks any different to the one that I did for the BG to be fair).

Kirk Gresley Coaches – 51ft All 3rd

Kirk Gresley Coaches 51ft All 3rd – Underframe fittings

Kirk Gresley Coaches 51ft All 3rd – Underframe fittings

NBR/LNER Bogie CCT Van

In between building the Kirk coaches I have also been assembling the other exNBR bogie CCT. This one will be finished in LNER livery for my own stock.

In NBR and LNER days the side panels were all half beaded this has been added using 0.8mm half round Plastruct strip.

NBR-LNER Bogie CCT

Although I will be making the sole bars from plastruct strip they are too long to make it out of one length so it will need to be joined.

In order that this isn’t visible on the finished model I plan to draw up and cut some 10 thou overlays. Which I plan to rivet in the same manner as the tar tank. This is in the hope that it will save me from drilling, cutting and inserting the many stubs of rod that would otherwise make up the multitude of bolt/rivet heads visible on the sole bars.

Gladiator B16-1 Tender fittings – Tool Boxes etc.

Another session last night brought the tender a little nearer to completion.

I managed to get all the whitemetal castings soldered on. I still haven’t decided whether to fit the small steps at either side of the coal chute or not the jury is still out.

I haven’t soldered the coal space/tender front in yet because I want to be able to get at the hand rails, lamp irons etc from the back before I do, then the last job [s]will[/s] should be making the corners for the flares.

Gladiator B16-1 Tender fittings – tools boxes etc

Gladiator B16-1 Tender fittings – tools boxes etc

Gladiator B16-1 Brake and Water Scoop Standards – An Exercise in Drilling and Filing

Yesterday having cut short a long weekend up north by yours truly forgetting to take his medication along I looked more closely at the brake and water scoop standards. I had more dialogue on RMweb with MikeMeg on the subject last week and he had remade the 4mm versions. I thought initially that although slightly on the fine side that the castings looked usable. – By fine they are quite slender in appearance whereas the photo posted earlier show them to be quite chunky, especially where the mounting pieces.

These are the castings provided.

Gladiator B16-1 Brake and Water Scoop Standards

The problem came when testing them against the tender front (stuck in place temporarily with bluetac).

Gladiator B16-1 Brake and Water Scoop Standards

Despite my cutting them off the sprue with as much length as possible, they are short in the column length

I couldn’t see any immediate way of extending the column* A better person than me might have been able cut it of and drill out the fixing brackets but they looked a bit on the fine side for me to be confident that I could achieve it so I decided to have a go at making some replacements.

Now I have to be honest at this point and say that this really became a test exercise to see what I could achieve with my Proxxon mini pillar drill with the X-Y table attachment. I have been looking for something to try it out in anger, having only drilled out 4 buffer stocks since I got it at Christmas.

Gladiator B16-1 Brake and Water Scoop Standards

Gladiator B16-1 Brake and Water Scoop Standards

Gladiator B16-1 Brake and Water Scoop Standards

They took me all day to make but I really enjoyed it and I have parts roughed out to make a couple more for a build for myself at some point. to give an idea of scale/chunkiness the new columns are made from 1.6mm rod.

*Thinking about it afterwards I could possibly have joined an extension piece onto the castings where they go through the wooden floor extension that’s shown on the photo of the tender front.

Gladiator B16-1 Coal Plate – Details (Part II)

Following on from a comment about not being able get at the coal by Jim Snowden on the guild forum, further work was done last night to represent the sliding plate on the front of the coal chute.

Without taking the front back off and doing major surgery I had to employ a little subterfuge to give the impression of a sliding plate but I feel that once painted it will look the part.

Gladiator B16-1 Coal Plate – details

Gladiator B16-1 Coal Plate – details

I also managed to get the front upper coal plate fitted and the lifting rings.

Gladiator B16-1 Coal Plate – details

I still need to add the steps to the sides of the coal chute but that’s about as far as I will go on this build (I keep forgetting “straight from the box”…) – I have lots of ideas for future builds of my own though.

Gladiator B16-1 Coal Plate details

Following on from some dialogue with MikeMeg over on RMweb who had posted on his 4mm thread, a photo of the tender from the front (Mike has recently built the 4mm version of this kit which is currently held, but not released for sale yet by London Road Models). The photo is from Ken Hoole’s NER Loco book which I have, but I hadn’t realised that the photo was there until Mike mentioned it.

EPSON scanner image

This is a cropped view of the tender front from the photo which differs a little from that portrayed in the kit.
The kit provides a flattened V shaped plate with a rectangular cutout for the coal door and a coal door which is riveted and had two holes for a handle. The V shaped plate when fitted leaves long triangular gaps down either side of it.

There are some etched rivet strips provided to cover these and to replicate the angle plates that you see in the photo. I didn’t find these (my fault for not looking at either the instructions or the etches before proceeding) before I had made up a couple of angle plates out of some half etched scrap that I had to hand.

having discovered them I still elected to use the ones that I made, because the rivet spacing was quite close together on the supplied strips. And it would have meant soldering two strips on instead of four.

I am sure the riveted strips will not be surplus for long.

Gladiator B16-1 Coal Plate details

Gladiator B16-1 Coal Plate details

The arrows on this repeat photo, shows what I have added to it so far. I still have a few bits to do – this sort of thing brings out the detailing devil in me I just can’t help it.

Gladiator B16-1 Coal Plate details

Gladiator B16-1 – Tender Flares and Coal Shute

Sunday afternoon saw the tender overlays added to the sides and rear of the tender. This wasn’t quite as smooth as I had hoped and I ended up having to run over it with the iron to get them to sit flat which meant quite a bit of cleaning up.

The original plan was to tin both sides and use the micro flame but I just couldn’t get it to stick for some reason. The other issue was that despite my best efforts otherwise by bending them into all sorts of shapes the aluminium clips, bent the flares in places meaning some remedial work.

Gladiator B16-1 – Tender Flares and Coal Shute

Gladiator B16-1 – Tender Flares and Coal Shute

As you can see I still have some cleaning up to do, but I don’t plan to clean up the inside of the flares until I have the tender top in place.

I am not sure whether it was me that got the overlay slightly out of line (it is wider than required so that you can file it back to get a crisp edge) or that the etched hole was slightly out of line but I will have to open the slot a bit to fit the rear lamp iron.

Next up I made a start on the tender top and coal chute. I want to get this fitted before attempting to make the corners of the tender flares from solder.

These all went pretty much as planned but there is a sight gap that I will need to fill. Again I am not sure whether it was my folding or the etch that’s slightly out but it’s an easy thing to sort.

Gladiator B16-1 – Tender Flares and Coal Shute

Gladiator B16-1 – Tender Flares and Coal Shute

Gladiator B16-1 – Tender Flares and Coal Shute

I haven’t done any cleaning up on this as I did it last thing last night and I was back to work this morning so couldn’t be too late to bed. – The redness is from using the microflame to solder the seams. It washes of easily enough with some bar keepers friend.

Gresley Coach Bogies, Newbould 8′ and ABS/Cavalier 8’6″

This weekend saw the bogies completed and primed. I had initially struggled to work out how to get the ABS Cavalier bogies together and an email to Adrian had him suggesting the addition of bit’s of welding rod to strengthen them. Having discussed the matter with Don we agreed that if I couldn’t get them together then I would use the Kirk bogies supplied instead.

Lo and behold when I looked again at them yesterday morning it all became clear and they were assembled in no time. There was minimal flash and I just had to file the ends of the bogie sides where they fit into the ends ever so slightly to remove a gap.

On the Newbould bogies shown mostly complete earlier I adjusted the springs that I had wrong to sit under the spring stops, then added the bolsters and the brakes. Both sets had a good wash and then a squirt with primer.

I will leave this until next week to harden completely before putting on the top coat of black.

Newbould and ABS-Cavalier Gresley Bogies

Newbould 8′ on the left, ABS/Cavalier 8’6″ on the right.

Newbould Models Gresley Bogie

Newbould 8′

ABS-Cavalier Gresley Bogie

ABS/Cavalier 8’6″ – and of course I see from the photos that I need to add some handles to the axle box fronts…

Newbould and ABS-Cavalier Gresley Bogies

Gladiator B16-1 – Tender

Today’s efforts have seen the tender body make some progress.

So far everything has fit as it should and the only minor concern is that the handrail holes look as if they might be a bit on the large side but until I have the overlays soldered on I won’t know for sure.

Gladiator B16-1 – Tender

Gladiator B16-1 – Tender

Gladiator B16-1 – Tender

One of the cleverest bits of the kit so far is the tender flares. The tender sides have a half etched overlay that you have to create a flare on and then another half etched overlay to go over that for the just the flare. This means that although you have more flares to bend being half etched they are easier to form.

Although I initially wasn’t looking forward to it, I recalled reading an article way back when I modelled 4mm, of someone who used a piece of rod in a vice and he squashed the flare against the thick rubber of a replacement shoe heel.

I didn’t have a spare rubber show heel but I did have a set of rubber soft jaws for my proxxon vice (many thanks to Richard Lambert – Dikitriki for recommending the vice to me when I was having a look at his work in progress Duchess last year).

The instructions recommend using a 3/16th rod and I had some lengths that I bought for setting up chassis before I invested in my jig. I placed the overlay against the tender side and measured how much flare was above the side 4.5mm and drew a line at 4.5mm from the top across each side the the rear.

I placed the rod in the vice utilising the V groove for gripping round sections. I put a soft jaw on the other side placed the flare along aide the rod with the pencil line just visible and worked my way along using the vice to squash the flare against the rubber of the soft jaw. I had to go along each piece a couple of times until I was happy with the result and then I repeated the process for the small flare overlays.

I just need to solder them onto the tender sides now but that will be a job for tomorrow as an early night beckons before going to Leigh show tomorrow.

Gladiator B16-1 – Tender Outer sides with Flares

Gladiator B16-1 – Tender Brakes and Water Scoop

Last night’s session saw the brakes and water scoop added to the tender.

I always seem to struggle with setting up brakes that are produced from etchings in that they seem to want to move in all directions when you are trying to solder them. I came up with the idea of wrapping a couple of layers of masking tape (the cheap kind not best Tamiya!) around each tyre which not only creates a gap against possible shorts but it also keep the worst of the flux from the wheel too. This allowed me to lean each shoe against the wheel and with the aid of some locking tweezers I was able to hold it in the right orientation while I soldered it.

Within the kit there is only one brake spreader for the front set of brakes. The rest are just represented by 0.7mm rod. I chose to file up a couple more from scrap etch and solder them on top of the pieces of rod. This not only looks a bit better for the few minutes that it took to do but it also gives a shoulder to space the brake shoes apart – again solving one of the potential directional shifts while trying to solder them.

You can’t really make it out in the photo but the forks in the two actuating rods that come from the front to the first spreader are slightly two wide for the single layer etch of the spreader. I could have nipped them closed a bit and just soldered them but again it was only the work of moments to wrap a couple of pieces of the half etched tags that I have cut of the various parts around the spreader and once the etching cusp was removed from the forks a much better fit that again held itself in place while applying the solder to it.

In reality the water scoop would fit below the brake spreader but in the interests of not having it catching anything on the track while running I soldered it to the top of the spreader. Once the outer frames are in place not much of it will be seen so I chose safety over accuracy.

Gladiator B16-1 – Tender Brakes and Water Scoop

The added spreader certainly improves the look from the rear of the tender.

Gladiator B16-1 – Tender Brakes and Water Scoop

Gladiator B16-1 – Tender Brakes and Water Scoop

Gladiator B16/1 Chassis First Test Run

This morning saw the chassis run sweetly at the first go.

Unfortunately the motor is too big for the firebox as built so a smaller motor will be sought.

Gladiator B16-1 Slidebars Crossheads and Motion Bracket

Work continued yesterday (after spending far too much time on the internet!!!).

I the slide bars installed on the motion bracket after slowly working my way backwards with the filing until the cylinders were in the right place.

you can see from the inset photo in this image how much I had to take it back. I did it in three stages checking the fit after each stage.

Gladiator B16-1 Slidebars Crossheads and Motion Bracket

I shortened the piston rods a bit so that they fit inside the slide bars with approx. 2mm protruding from the gland on the inside of the cylinder. Now that I have it all assembled I will fit the connecting rods and cut the piston rods to final length.

Gladiator B16-1 Slidebars Crossheads and Motion Bracket

Gladiator B16-1 Slidebars Crossheads and Motion Bracket

Gladiator B16-1 Slidebars Crossheads and Motion Bracket

Gladiator B16-1 Slidebars Crossheads and Motion Bracket

The close ups show that I still have a bit of cleaning up to do.