This afternoon saw the injectors fitted and all the bits assembled.
Finally a couple of the injectors in place although not 100 percent accurate they look the part.
With the end in sight for the J79 my thoughts have started straying to the next build which is to be an LNER/BR J6 (ex Great Northern Railway) This is to be built from a Gladiator Kit which originated in the George Norton Connoisseurs Choice range (according to the etches). Extras include full inside motion from Laurie Griffin along with a few of his detailing parts. Once it’s painted (by Warren Haywood) I will then be weathering it and adding the finishing touches.
We start with what’s in the box.
First the brass castings and turnings
Then the very cleanly cast white metal details.
Then the etches, the chassis etches are quite substantial nickel silver etches but the body etches feel much thinner so I suspect that they will require a bit of careful handling until they are soldered into a rigid structure.
Wheels and pick up’s
Finally the extras, These are all from Laurie Griffin and were my suggestions to the gent that I am building it for to not only enhance it but to replace the vulnerable etched lamp irons.
Not included in the kit but very visible on the sides of the chassis are a couple of injectors. A search through Laurie Griffins site didn’t reveal any that looked remotely suitable so I decided to make my own from brass tube, rod and some 14BA nuts with copper wire for the pipes.
Steady progress this week has seen more details added to the body.
The buffers all needed drilling out for the bolt heads – because I had them I used some of the rather nice Scale Hardware items
I also added the front lamp irons (Laurie Griffin castings) and the bracket on the front buffer plank which is visible in the photos that I have and Yeadon speculates that it was used for shunting locos/tenders when separated from each other. This was made from scrap nickel etch soldered together with 295 degree solder so it stayed together when I used 145 to add it to the buffer plank. – again a few more Scale Hardware items to finish it. – The eagle eyed amongst you will note that one went missing while washing it too…
The hand rail on the fireman’s side has a fitting that incorporates the support for the end of the handrail on the smokebox this was made up using some small bore tube, a disk of scrap etch and a 14BA nut. The tube sealed with the scrap etch was slid onto a stub of handrail protruding forward of the hand rail knob with the nut at the other side and all soldered in place. It’s not strictly accurate but it will pass muster once painted and is better than just a plain handrail knob.
It was discretely pointed out that the coal rails were plated right to the bottom and it for me it was a wood and trees moment because all my photos show it but it hadn’t sunk in.
Remedying it involved taking the rails off again because try as I might I couldn’t get the extra strip to stay in place while I soldered it while it was in situ.
The same discussion concluded that being vacuum fitted it probably had an upper rear lamp iron too. Scrap etch to the rescue. This was the second attempt because having made a lovely job of the first which was made from conveniently shaped bit of etch I realised that I had the slope rising up above the horizontal rather than below it as it should be.
In the instructions (like many of his kits) Jim suggests the use of split pins instead of handrail knobs. For the J79, looking at the photos I have, it seems that handrail knobs are a better fit to the real thing than split pins would be.
In the box were a nice pair of brass brake standards, one for the loco one for the spares box – the spares box has been heavily raided for this build.
Since taking this shot on Sunday morning I have made up the vacuum ejector pipe and soldered the rear of the cab in place.
Now that the B16/1 is finished I thought I would share with a you a little distraction that I had a couple of weeks ago.
The coupling rods in this kit are brass etches and Jim helpfully suggests tinning them to make them look like dirty steel rods. I have used this tactic in the past and it does work.
Finally I blackened the wheels, tapped the crank pin bushes 10ba and fitted 10ba steel Counter Sunk screws to the wheels.
Tonight I reassembled it and took the following photos before dropping it off at Warren’s for painting.
To fit the no smoking transfers I made up a little jig from a piece of 20thou styrene which was the width of the window from the outside. I measured half way up the window and marked the styrene. I then added 1mm and marked it again. After measuring the with of the transfer I subtracted this from the total width and divided the remainder by two. I measured the result from each edge and marked a vertical line from the high line to the middle line at each side and then cut the styrene out leaving me with a rectangle of styrene with a notch cut out that centres the transfer in the middle of the window both vertically and horizontally
After my mistake with the wheels on Saturday, I sorted them out and with the weather being not too bad we cleaned up part of the circuit on the garden line and gave it a try.
Sadly, the rigid chassis doesn’t take well to my less than generous curves but it is alive and now just needs final detailing.
Here’s a video of it running up and down the straight section.
Chris also took a few photos of it in the sunshine. Just a few more details to add before it goes of to Warren for painting.