More work on the workshop has reduced modelling time somewhat but a little progress has been made on the brake vans. A lot of progress has been made on the workshop with my spray booth now fitted and vented externally and for the first time my Mini Formit (guillotine/folder/rolling bars) are permanently bolted to the bench and following Pete’s post I had another look at the alignment of the blade and anvil and had a lightbulb moment. Unseen previously, underneath the front edge of the anvil are two adjustment screws which push the anvil against the blade. Once I slackened the retaining screws and then used the adjustment screws the blade now sits tight against the anvil and it will happily cut shim so although I haven’t tested it yet it should cut the 10 thou nickel and brass sheets that it previously just bent down between anvil and blade. To help with the location of the roofs I cut a strip of brass sheet (scrap etch) and then curved and scored it to represent the planking above the verandas. These were soldered to the underside of the roofs.
Next the roofs were covered in lense cleaning tissue to represent the canvas and finally the chimneys soldered on.
It has taken going on for 6 hours to get the step boards assembled. I can see why Jim says that this is not an afternoon build. Even taking in to account that I am doing two at once, I reckon that it would take a long weekend at least, to build one of these.
A couple of good sessions in the workshop has seen the bodies assembled and I was going to say complete but I just remembered the small cover plates that fit where the side laps were removed are still to fit.
Last night I unsoldered the errant end and soldered it on at the right end and then made up the second body. This morning I added the end platforms before looking at fitting the doors.
Although I had discussed the suggestion of adding opening doors I initially planned to solder at least some of them on. When it came to it, I did manage to get them soldered on one end but getting them in the right position was quite difficult and because they are laminated from two full thickness pieces they took a lot of heat from the microflame to get them the solder to melt and I wasn’t really happy with them.
My main concern with making opening doors was how to get the pin in to retain them because the doors fit tight under the strip that runs across the veranda end which represents the timber framing. I thought about drilling a hole in the strip to insert the pin from the top but it was too close to the upright and would have been hard work so I inserted it from the bottom and soldered it in. It does mean that I can’t take them off for painting but it was the only way to get them on.
Once I had the hang of how to do it I had the rest done in a couple of hours.
Just to prove that they do indeed open I took a short video. https://youtu.be/-Xo54fV_cp8
Putting a few items of rolling stock into the small ads has prompted me to finish this brake van which for some reason I had completed apart from the roof. I am not sure what happened but I hadn’t painted or done anything with the roof so I set to and added a canvas covering and once that was dry I painted and weathered it and then stuck it to the van body. This will now be joining the for sale list.
My order from Metalsmith arrived this week so I moved back onto the Slaters brake van build. The order from Metalsmith was chiefly for 4mm x 2mm angle which I have used to make replacement stepboards in brass.
The reasons for this are twofold, they will be more resilient to handling and I can solder them to the cast brass stepboard supports provided in the kit. Conversely I have swapped the cast brass buffer stocks in the kit for some spare Parkside ones of the same style which I can glue more easily to the plastic headstocks.
I aslo cut out and cleaned up the axles boxes and springs ready for fitting and ran in to a little problem.
I had previously fitted some triangular (well almost) etched corner plates to the underside of the headstock/solebars. as you can see from the photos these now prevent the spring hangers from sitting flat under the sole bars. A look at the GA reveals that the spring hangers have been cut to allow the plates to be fitted but I feel that I may have fitted them in the wrong orientation and plan to remove one of them to check how it fits with the plate turned through 45 degrees.
Yesterday I managed to get the cabin ends detailed ready for assembly to the body.
Although not discernable on the photos that I have due to there position and being in shadow. The drawing that Jim includes with the kit has a notation that the vents above the doors were planked over later in life. What I am not sure about it whether the planking was flush with the ends or that the vents were literally planked over. I have chosen to do the latter using some thin scrap etch.
Although I still have the small panels to add to the sides where the fixed side lamps were removed later in life. I cracked on with the veranda ends and managed to get them ready for fitting to the body. Next up is the ends of the cabin and all the safety bars over the windows. Although since my order of brass angle for the step boards on the LNER van has arrived from Barry at Metalsmith I may get the step boards prepared for fitting.
I made a small start on these while the interior parts for the LNER van was cutting on the Silhouette and I finally have them at a point where it was worth taking some photos
They are much more involved than I originally envisaged with a good number of overlaid parts. What you see above is the result of more than 8 hours work. Admittedly that is for two of them.
For anyone building these a tip is to take some time over the bending of the ducket fronts. Getting the basic shape was fairly simple. But taking extra time to get them to fit without having to apply any pressure paid dividends when it came to soldering them on.
These are destined for the small ads so now I need to decide on how I intend to finish them. Personally I would like to do one LSWR version (so I can add the extra details that were removed later in it’s life) and a BR version. But I suspect that in terms of being attractive to a wider range of buyers the BR version will have most appeal.
Besides using them to generate funds I am also using these to ensure that I can still solder etc and work okay in metal before returning to building things for other people. My fingers are mostly back to normal after my mishap with the mower but there are some jobs such as driling with a pin vice that I am finding difficult at the minute. Hopefully that will improve with time and use.
As many will know Slaters do a really nice casting for a brake van stove. The problem with them is that they are based on an LMS(Midland?) design and although I have used them myself on other builds I have always hoped that someone would do an LNER version. For this build having got a drawing for the stove, (thanks Dave) I thought I would have a bash at making one. I am quite pleased with the results and I should have taken a shot with a 5p piece to show how big it isn’t…
I will have to straighten the jaunty chimney angle before final fitting though
Finally a couple more shots of the interior as it is at the moment.
Although I have been busy in the workshop all day I have been distracted by fitting buffers to a good number of part finished models. I did manage to get the door on the brake van hung though and it does open and close.
Finally a better shot of the internals than I managed last night.
Firstly my appologies for the crap photos’s I haven’t anywhere set up to take them at the minute so I had to do with poor lighting and try to make up for it with software but it isn’t up to much. I managed to get my hands on some styrene so the last couple of days while it has been raining I cleared a space and set up the cutter. First I cut the parts for the new door and the internal lockers/benches etc. Sadly it didn’t go without incident and on the very last cut it moved out of registration and scrapped them all. Undeterred I cut them again and they came out okay. I glued the layers for the door together and laid them between two sheets of glass to dry and it was only when I was rubbing the edges down to remove the layering that I realised that I had a few layers too many – the completed door was a scale 4″ thick. I must have been thinking I was building a bullion van or something… So third time lucky as the saying goes we have the new door sorted. And after all that I forgot to take any photos of it. While the door was drying I made up the lockers and from the drawing added hinges, and hasp and staple to each locker area. The drawing also says that the guard was to be issued one padlock, so only one of them has a padlock.
Having added the lining detail to the interior I set about making the Guard’s vacuum gauge and the automatic van valve etc.
All made from styrene rod and tube of various sizes. I have just realised that I have missed of the guard’s handle I will add that before final fitting. Here are a few shots of things just resting in place.
Just ready for the stove when I finish drawing and cutting it…
While waiting for the glue to dry on the first pair of W Irons I was studying the GA’s and noted that in the cain fastened to the roof is what is described as a “Running Rail with Hooks” So I thought what better to get me back into making the little details than this. I also noted that there are a couple of coat hooks too.
And finally one with the obligatory coin to give an idea of scale.
Although progress is steady because I keep getting distracted with photography the BV is moving forward. The roof now has canvas and the etched end plates have the rivets pressed out and ready to fit as is the other veranda but that won’t be done until I make the door.
I did wonder if I would need to remove the rainstrips in order to get the canvas to sit down bt a bit of patient smoothing with a bit of spare plastic sprue saw it cover very nicely indeed.
Another day spent mostly drawing up the internals. I have now finished them apart from drawing up a stove and oven – more on that later. I have moved all the drawings from their original files/layers to fit on to two drawings each with a single layer for cutting. The first will be cut from 10 thou styrene and the second 20 thou.
The plan was to cut them this morning but that’s gone by the wayside after discovering that the pack of styrene sheet that I have with me only contains the stuff that is too thick to go through the cutter… I have lots of it in storage so I am not going to buy any more, I will just crack on with other things until I can go out again. I did get the veranda end fitted last night though so the next job is to add the canvas to the roof.
You may be getting overloaded with photos showing minute levels of progress. This is because I am also taking the opportunity to play about with my new camera and it’s ability to be remote controlled via wifi. Finally for this post, a return the stove and oven discussion. Slaters do a really nice cast pot bellied type stove which I have used in a few of my builds but it’s to an LMS design (I think). The LNER stoves are completely different being flat planes – see the snip below.
While having an online discussion with a friend he mentioned that he had GA’s for the LNER stove and oven should I have a desire to make one. He duly sent them over and now has come the time to at least draw one up. I will probably do it in Inkscape but it might even be the push needed to get me to learn to draw in 3D so that I could print a master for subsequent casting.
This is a bit of an instructional post so for some readers it may be granny and eggs but if not I hope that it helps at some point.
In my experiences with plastic wagon kits from such as Slaters and Parkside (Peco) the way that they do the corners sometimes leaves a little to be desired (or more realistically fettled). The designer attempts to make not only the corner timbers marry up but also the corner strapping where fitted too. When making my own design of wagons via the Silhouette cutter I always make the iron work as 10 thou overlays.
I digress, having got as far as fitting the first of the outer Veranda partitions at first try there was a gap of around half a mil or more.
That shown above is the other end which is still to fettle. This is the end that I have done and it does fitt cleanly when pushed into place it was just difficult to get it perfectly in place and take a photo of it.
To achieve this snug fit I had to file scrape and otherwise nibble away at the two bits highlighted on both edges of the partition.
I had most of the day at the bench today and to be honest there doesn’t look much to show for it at present. I have progressed the drawings for the internals quite a bit though.
I spent some time measuring and scribing the planking on the floor and also on the underside of the roof – yes I know that you can see it unless you turn it upside down but I know it’s there…. I did manage to get the inner ends and one side on the cabin after dressing the sides with duckets, lamp and grab rails.