Refurbished Brumm Carriage Finished

I managed to drill the brass lamps for a fixing pin yesterday and got them fitted, so I can declare this one completely finished.

A few more gratuitous shots because I am really pleased with how this has turned out. I really do need to get the OCT’s finished now.

Brumm Carriage Finished.
Brumm Carriage Finished.
Brumm Carriage Finished.
Brumm Carriage Finished.

Refurbished Brumm Carriage

Following on from my making of the replacement carriage lamps for the Brumm Carriage acouple of posts or so ago, I decided that I really couldn’t live with that bright yellow livery.

So, in between other jobs, I carefully took it to bits and resprayed all the bits to take off the ‘plasticy’/toy like look. This journey was helped by my sorting out the issues with two of my airbrushes and completely killing the third when the spray nozzle broke off as I was reassembling it after a thorough clean. I have kept the remaining parts as I am pretty sure that the needle and other bits will fit one of the others.

I originally wanted to finish it in a crimson lake colour but I didn’t have any paint to hand so I enlisted Chris’s assistance to mix some. Part way through that process she arrived at a lovely plum colour which I rather liked so we stuck with that.

Refurbished Brumm Carriage
Refurbished Brumm Carriage
Refurbished Brumm Carriage
Refurbished Brumm Carriage
Refurbished Brumm Carriage

I do still need to fit those replacement carriage lamps though…

The People’s choice!!! – First place in the Gauge O Guild Modelling Competition Rolling Stock Category.

I didn’t post pictures of the finished article before now because I planned to enter it in the GOG modelling competition. Which was held today.

I am pleased to say it took first place in the Rolling Stock section.

Implement Wagon with Horse drawn cart
Implement Wagon with Horse drawn cart
Implement Wagon with Horse drawn cart
Implement Wagon with Horse drawn cart
Implement Wagon with Horse drawn cart

Atomiser for an LNER A3

Amongst the minor casualties of the strip and repaint of my DJH A3 that I am aware of is the atomiser casting that sits on the side of the smoke box. Now I could have bought a casting from Ragstone or Finney7 but where’s the fun in that. And so, I set out to make one using the mill and lathe.

In the absence of having any collet blocks (subsequently ordered and received) I used a pin vice with a hex head to index milling the flats on the bar to create accurate hex nuts. I used a toolmakers clamp fastened to the rear jaw of the vice as a stop so that I got the pin vice back in exactly the same position as I rotated it after each cut.

Using a hex head pin vice for indexing on the mill
Using a hex head pin vice for indexing on the mill

I had a first attempt which came out alright but I felt it was a bit small. I dug out a casting from my Finney A3 kit and it was certainly longer than the one that I had created.

Atomiser For LNER A3
Atomiser For LNER A3

Learning all the while, I thought that I would have another go.

Atomiser For LNER A3
Atomiser For LNER A3

Setting the Unimat on its fastest speed, I found that I could not only successfully turn down the spigot for the handwheel, I could also grip that spigot in a 1mm collet and turn the head down to size with light cuts and a sharp tool.

I was concerned that the spigot being turned down to 0.8mm wouldn’t have enough strength and that the turning forces would cause the head to shear off. I proved it wasn’t a fluke by doing a second aft inadvertently crushing my first attempt when I didn’t get it sat square in the collet.

Another itch scratched!

Since dabbling with horse drawn vehicles I have been able to scratch an itch that I have had for a while. It started several years ago when I was talking to a gent while demoing at a show and he mentioned that he had some 1:43 scale horse drawn carriages. I was most surprised when at the next show I was demoing at he brought one along and offered it to me. Funds changed hands and I happily brought home this.

Brumm Carriage
Brumm Carriage
Brumm Carriage

my intentions have always been to use it as a load for one of the open Carriage trucks that I have part built. What I didn’t notice until some time after bringing it home was that one of the carriage lamps was missing. I am not complaining because to be honest the lamps are a bit cheesy and do let down what is other wise not a bad model.

A discussion with a friend brought this to mind and I decided to have a go at doing something about it. I made a prototype to prove the concept but it was a bit on the big side so I made a couple more which are pretty much dead on for the size of the one that remains.

7mm Scale Carriage Lamps

Not the best photo in the world but these things are pretty small.

LNER Cinder Guards

Those who read my ramblings may recall my mentioning and showing the build of a DJH LNER A3 that I built a few years ago.
I was never really happy with the paint job and Warren Haywood offered to strip and repaint it for me. I received it back from Warren and one of the casualties of the paint strip were the etched cinder guards from the cab side.

There used to be some really nice castings for Cinder Guards available from Hobby Horse but since Simon’s retirement and the business not being sold they are no longer available.

So I decided to have a go at drawing some up. My initial design taken from an A3 GA had the hinges with the two ears either side but looking closely at cab side photos of Flying Scotsman and Green Arrow showed me that they were different on LNER locos at least so I added the two hinges at the bottom of the image.

I plan to get these cast by Mike Hopkins and Chris suggested that I also do some assembled so that I can see what works best in terms of castings – all told I need 7 or 8 sets for various loco kits that I have in my stash.

I decided to do two options of the assembled item

Option one is with the guard in it’s open position at 90 degrees to the cab sideoption two is with them folded back against the cab side. To achieve this I needed to make them handed. I got the idea for having them folded back from fellow member Ian Beattie, who mentioned that he always models them folded back to minimise damage and I thought it a good idea.

I did screen shots for these as the renders were so bright you couldn’t really see anything….
I will share photos of the castings when I get them back from Mike.

3D Carriage Wheel

After my recent adventures with horse drawn vehicles, I thought that I would have a go at drawing up a spoked wheel. The lack of availability of suitable wheels has been what has held me back in the past from doing more with horse drawn vehicles, which were so much a part of the railway scene in my chosen modelling era. Indeed my paternal grandfather was still delivering milk from his farm via horse and cart in the late 1950’s

The basic wheel and spokes took only a short time to draw up but it then took around an hour and a half to work out how to get the camber on the spokes. I deleted the ring of spokes multiple times before I got there.

GNR One Horse Parcels Van – Ready for glazing

I finally got it painted and ready for glazing. The roof was ‘canvassed’ using my old favourite, used lens cleaning tissue.

I plan to do the glazing with Glue n Glaze from Deluxe materials assuming it hasn’t gone off since I used it last.

GNR One horse Parcel van ready for glazing
GNR One horse Parcel van ready for glazing
GNR One horse Parcel van ready for glazing
GNR One horse Parcel van ready for glazing

GNR One Horse Parcels Van – made assemblies complete

Next I made up the underframe and shafts from Plastruct. The shafts I put in a collet in the lathe and then used a file to taper the end. Then once I had them both tapered the same I held them together and kept holding them in boiling water while applying pressure to get them to curve at the ends. Once happy I stuck them into holes in the ends of the under frame.

GNR One horse Parcel van – Underframe and Traces

What will become housings for the harness rings were made by wrapping a 5mm wide strip of 10 thou around an off cut of the same plastruct rod that I made the shafts from and gluing the ends together leaving the piece removable. I held it in a small hand vice until dry. Once dry it was removed from the rod, trimmed to size and tested out on the shafts. At this point it still need to be drilled.

Then I moved back to the body and added beading from 0.8mm half round Plastruct strip following the photo rather than the drawing fr the placement of the strips.

GNR One horse Parcel van – Body almost complete
GNR One horse Parcel van – Body almost complete
GNR One horse Parcel van – Body almost complete
GNR One horse Parcel van – Body almost complete

Last but not least the seat, the wheels and the springs were the items that I mentioned that were salvaged from the Brumm model.

GNR One horse Parcel van – Wheels and Springs

Brake Standard and Stove Castings in brass

No posts for weeks and then two posts in a day.

Although I have had these printed in resin by kind hearted fellow modellers, I also wanted to see what they would look like in Brass so I asked Mike Hopkins if he would add some to his next set of castings.

LNER BRake Standard and Stove Castings
LNER BRake Standard and Stove Castings

Well worth the money and the short wait.

Scratch Built GNR One Horse Parcels Van

I have always fancied building a horse drawn vehicle or two mainly as wagon loads for several Open Carriage trucks that I have on the go. I was put onto the idea by a gent I spoe to at a show a few years ago who subsequently brought me a horse drawn carriage from a company named Brumm. Some of the Brumm carriages fetch crazy amounts of money but I found one that was being sold as scrap for not much more than postage and bought it to salvage the wheels from.

Although my photo is of a Great Northern Railway parcels van, the only drawing I have is for an LNWR example but they are broadly similar. I scaled the drawing on the basis of the wheel size that I planned to use (the Brumm Wheels are slightly bigger diameter than the LNWR drawing).

I drew out the body pieces in Inkscape and cut them out with the silhouette and got this basic body.

Please excuse the colouring of the photos as I had to adjust them to show the white against the white background…

Shop Made Tail Stock Locking clamp for the Unimat III

I mentioned in my Parting tool upgrade post that I planned to upgrade the locking clamp for the tailstock too.
Like many locking clamps on the Unimat III the locking clamp for the tail stock is an M6 cap screw. It being tucked down the side of the tail stock body it isn’t always convenient to get to. Watching the videos from the GOG virtual shows done by the late David Smith (DLOS) on workshop practice I noted that he had done a similar upgrade and it prompted me to think about it. I finally go to it.
As luck would have it I have a small stock of 50mm stainless M6 cap screws. These are only threaded for part of their length so I started by threading one of them along it’s entire length. Not an easy task in stainless but I got there. Next I cut of the head and cut it approximately to length. 
Then I drilled and tapped a short length of 16mm aluminium bar M6 and turned a 20% taper on the closed end. Having tried to fit it all together so that I could work out the handle length I realised that I had it too tall and it wouldn’t screw past the body of the tail stock. I parted off 5mm and that cured the problem. I screwed it on hand tight an marked where the handle was gong to be and had to change plans again.
My initial idea was to use another M6 screw for the handle and make a knob similar to the pinch boss to fit on the end. My test run proved that there just wasn’t enough room for any kind of knob so I was pondering what I might do when I remembered that I had a short length of steel bar in my tool box that I had had for years and it usually found use as a drift so was a little battered on the ends.
I faced one end off and turned it down to 5.85mm to thread M6 again it being stainless, made this a bit of fun but once I got it started it wasn’t as hard as threading the screw. Then I decided to taper the rest of it to make a handle shape so I centre drilled the threaded end and used a live centre to support it while I turned the taper. After initially completely forgetting that I needed to turn the topside feed not the carriage feed I ended up with the handle below which I was quite pleased with.

Shop made Tail Stock Clamp Handle.

Having cross drilled the pinch boss I assembled it all and it looks like this

Shop made Tail Stock clamp

This is the unlocked position and a quarter turn locks it

Shop made Tail Stock clamp

Carried away by this success I have ordered some more 8mm stainless rod to make another to replace  the cap screw on the quill lock.

NER Boiler Fittings Trials Trials and Tribulations

After my efforts to create the lovely safety valve bonnet yesterday I was dismayed when I learned that I had orientated the ellipse at the top in the wrong direction. It should run in line with the boiler….

Today’s first task was sorting that out. All was not lost as I learned a bit more while correcting it and I have an even better end result for my efforts.

Next up I drew up a replacement chimney to the correct dimensions for the Class J and initially I added rivets around the base but Tom alerted me to the fact that the NER used countersunk bolts so nothing was visible on the chimney base after painting. A few steps back on the Fusion timeline removed them. It’s certainly much easier to remove them than to add them…

Although the Class J didn’t have a brass cap to the chimney the drawing that I worked from showed it so I couldn’t resist depicting it on the photos at least.

Finally I drew up a replacement dome so that should draw a line under this particular little project if you will pardon the pun.

Shop Made Parting Tool fixture

3D drawing has been a bit of a distraction from the other things that life has thrown my way recently but I also made a small upgrade to my parting tool holder for the Unimat.

Due it small size I had to buy a mini parting blade and this is what it looks like below

Parting tool as supplied

The bit that’s supposed to hold the blade and keep it from moving is this bit, which is for all the world like a bent washer.

Flimsy Clamping fixture

After parting a few items off I noted that on some of them the back of the part was actually convex because the cutting force had bent the “washer” and allowed the parting tool to move to one side as it was cutting.
Having bought my long length of steel from Wickes I decided that I would look at making something a little sturdier.

This is what I came up with.

Shop made clamping fixture

The slot is wider than the blade (1.45mm) because my smallest milling cutter at present is 3mm but I do have some brass bar that will fit in the remaining slot should I need to take out any slack.

Here it is fitted.

Shop made parting tool clamping fixture

There is a small shim in between the fixture and the tool holder which helps apply an even pressure. The fixture is thick enough not to bend under pressure and long enough to hold the blade inline with the tool holder without being able to twist while cutting.

Next I plan to make a locking handle for my tail stock. It currently locks via a cap head M6 screw which isn’t always very convenient.

David Andrews Princess 4000 Gallon Tender

A couple of bereavements since my last post on this have slowed things down somewhat but I have made a little more progress.

Getting the rear of the tender and the tank top square and straight up has been a bit of a struggle.

David Andrews Tender Rear
David Andrews Tender Rear
David Andrews Tender Rear

This has mainly been due to the fact that the rear of the tender is mainly half etched. The half etching process in what is quite thick base material, has made it curl in several planes.

A look at one of the tender sides probably helps to illustrate this better than the photos of the tender rear.

Curl on tender sides do to half etching process

I got there in the end.

David Andrews Tender Rear

NER No 2 Axle Box

I am still being distracted by 3D drawing in Fusion. I have also discovered the render tool so the images look so much better.

As I have more than a passing interest in rolling stock I thought I would attempt an NER No2 Axle box.

A friend kindly pointed out that we mostly only model the part in front of the W Iron so I changed the drawing slightly