Connoisseur Models LNER N10 Tank Engine

This posting is a little bit of a surprise because I wasn’t expecting to do much with it. 
I have been using this kit when I demo loco building at shows, I would rather take one of my kits along than one that I am building for someone else just in case anything happens to it. 
Up to Saturday I had only managed to cut out the frames, remove the cusps and bend up the frame spacers (at Newton Aycliffe Show in March) due to being far too busy talking to people.
Although I did have lots of interest I seemed to really crack on with it after showing one gent how to solder up the boiler.
This build will get updated intermittently because I will be only working on it at shows until it’s well on its way.
I think that this amount of progress in between talking to people really is a testament to Jim McGeown and the quality of the kit/fit of the parts.

Connoisseur Models LNER N10
Connoisseur Models LNER N10
Connoisseur Models LNER N10
Connoisseur Models LNER N10
Connoisseur Models LNER N10


I didn’t take my rolling bars along nor did I have anything thicker than a scriber. So to roll the smokebox wrapper I had to sit and bend the etch between fingers and thumbs. Working steadily away until it reached the right shape. 

It’s been a while.

Life has got in the way so modelling has taken a bit of a back seat for some time. However last weekend I did manage to do a bit and in between painting seats for the Kirk twin set I assembled some Silhouette cut coach sides for a GWR Director Saloon that I cut out back in January.

Silhouette Cut GWR Directors Saloon
Silhouette Cut GWR Directors Saloon
Silhouette Cut GWR Directors Saloon
Silhouette Cut GWR Directors Saloon

Kirk Twins Coach Bogie Mounting/Connections

Further to my last post I was asked to take some photos of the actual connection between the two coaches.

Kirk Twins – Bogie mounting brackets
Kirk Twins – Bogie mounting brackets
Kirk Twins – Bogie mounting brackets


Due to the tin overlay that I had added to the headstock I decided on the belt and braces pins right through approach to hopefully prevent them coming apart.

More on the Kirk Twins

Having got the Beer wagons finished I don’t seem to have much to show for recent modelling session until now.
Last weekend after teaching my car to swim in a flood or two I made some visible progress on the Kirk twins.
Rain strips fitted – very topical, step boards fitted both from Evergreen strip which comes in longer lengths than the equivalent Plastruct and is just long enough for the 51 footers. I am not sure what I will use for the 4 60′ corridor coaches I have in the stash.
I also sorted out the articulation between the coaches and made top hat bush to set the centre ride height.

Now all I need to do ir remember where I put the turnbuckle castings for safe keeping after drilling them out and I can crack on with the remaining underframe detailing.

DJH 4mm scale Highland Barney

Over on RMweb Mark Tatlow mentioned the clack valves on the side of the boiler on the Barney and made me realise that the misshapen blob was supposed to represent themThis is the blob that I refer to:[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7832/39851133783_eeaeab0d9b.jpg[/img]

DJH 4mm Highland Barney Loco Almost Completed

Having had it pointed out I had to do something about it. Mark had pointed me at some castings by Alan Gibson but I figured that they couldn’t be too difficult to make a pair and although a little fiddly they were fairly easy to do.

DJH 4mm Highland Barney – Scratch Built Clack Valves

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DJH 4mm Highland Barney – Scratch Built Clack Valves
DJH 4mm Highland Barney – Scratch Built Clack Valves
DJH 4mm Highland Barney – Scratch Built Clack Valves
DJH 4mm Highland Barney – Scratch Built Clack Valves

They comprise, a couple of brass track rivets, two etched washers and 0.7+0.8mm brass rod.
First I drilled through the rivets to take the .8mm rod and then with the thick end of the rivet held in a pin vice I used the Proxxon pillar drill to spot drill and then drill through one side of the narrower section. I then soldered a length of .8mm rod through the centre with a stub sticking out of the narrow end. Then I soldered a length of 0.7mm through the hole in the side threaded on the washer and soldered that.
I scraped the misshapen lumps away with a scalpel and then drilled the boiler side finally bending the 0.8mm rod to shape and using a tiny piece of 100 degree I wafted the microflame over the clack until the solder melted and it was in place.

Refinement of the Coupling Hooks

The eagle eyed amongst you will also note that I have attacked the rather square profile of the coupling hook with some diamond coated burrs that fit my Dremel
In true Blue Peter fashion – Before:

Gladiator ex GCR Open Wagon – With Trestle Bar

It looks more like a proper coupling hook now

Gladiator ex GC Open Wagon with Trestle Bar

Gladiator ex GC Open Wagon with Trestle Bar

Another session last night saw the GC open is almost finished, it just needs retaining chains for the side doors on the other side and the buffers fitting properly – just posed here for the photos.

Gladiator ex GC Open Wagon with Trestle Bar

The inside is nicely detailed albeit the bottom doors are for the version without the trestle bar so mine will be tarped when finished so they won’t be visible.

Gladiator ex GC Open Wagon with Trestle Bar
Gladiator ex GC Open Wagon with Trestle Bar

I will definitely be adding more of these to a shopping list in the future.

Slaters Vans and Cattle Wagons complete and ready for delivery

The Slaters Wagons are finally complete and although I have enjoyed the building of them I am glad that they are finished and will be delivered to their owner next weekend at Bristol Show.
They are to be used on a Layout called Hobson’s Brewery, hence the faint ‘ALE’ branding on the cattle wagons.
Here are the official portraits of each van.

Slaters form LMS Cattle/Ale Wagons – Ready for delivery
Slaters form LMS Cattle/Ale Wagons – Ready for delivery

Sadly Paul Barlett informs me that running number B68501 belongs to a steel mineral….but I am sure that I took the numbers from the ranges supplied in the Slaters instructions – all things BR not being my strong point.

Slaters BR Vans – Ready for delivery
Slaters BR Vans – Ready for delivery
Slaters form LMS Cattle/Ale Wagons – Ready for delivery
Slaters form LMS Cattle/Ale Wagons – Ready for delivery
Slaters BR Vans – Ready for delivery
Slaters BR Vans – Ready for delivery
Slaters 7mm Scale LMS Cattle Wagons
Slaters form LMS Cattle/Ale Wagons – Ready for delivery

Slaters 7mm Cattle Wagons and BR Vans

Bob’s wagons are now well under way with just a few jobs remaining before I can get them on their way to him.

Slaters 7mm Scale LMS Cattle Wagons
Slaters 7mm Scale LMS Cattle Wagons
Slaters 7mm Scale LMS Cattle Wagons
Slaters 7mm Scale LMS Cattle Wagons
Slaters 7mm Scale BR Vans
Slaters 7mm Scale BR Vans
Slaters 7mm Scale BR Vans


Jobs still to do are:
Fix on the roofsAdd additional weightWeather the underframes of the cattle wagonsWeather the vans.
I hope to have the weathering, and weight completed tonight.



Gladiator ex GCR Open with Trestle Bar

Minor health issues this week have stopped play for a few days so it was only last night when I made more progress.
The open wagon is well on it’s way now and it just needs the trestle bar and final details.
I also need to work out just how to spring the buffers because they are turned brass heads that are designed for springing with a piece of piano type wire passing between them and the coupling hook tail.


Aside from the buffers it’s a lovely kit to build with everything fitting as and where it should.

Gladiator ex GCR Open Wagon – With Trestle Bar
Gladiator ex GCR Open Wagon – With Trestle Bar
Gladiator ex GCR Open Wagon – With Trestle Bar
Gladiator ex GCR Open Wagon – With Trestle Bar
Gladiator ex GCR Open Wagon – With Trestle Bar

Gladiator ex GCR 10 Ton Open Wagon with Trestle Bar

Having spent all my Christmas break building things for other people I decided to take a day out to build something for me. I had a look in my kit stash and came up with a Gladiator kit for a GCR 10 ton Open Wagon which Chris bought me from Geoff Stratford just before he sold Gladiator To David and Trisha Hill.

So far it has been excellent to build with all parts fitting as they should and the only bits of fettling were to remove the ends of the sole bars to enable them to fit under the bottom of the buffer plank.

Gladiator ex GC Open Wagon with Trestle Bar
Gladiator ex GC Open Wagon with Trestle Bar
Gladiator ex GC Open Wagon with Trestle Bar
Gladiator ex GC Open Wagon with Trestle Bar

DJH 4mm Scale Highland Barney Construction Finished

Yesterday I pretty much finished the construction of the Barney. It still needs hand rails and the motor fitting sadly despite much grinding away underneath which allowed the motion to move freely as soon as I added the brakes to the chassis they created more clearance problems.

DJH 4mm Highland Barney Loco Almost Completed

I made up another vac pipe for the front.

Modified by CombineZP

And finally one of the quite prominent things on this particular loco are the injector(?) pipes that go into the top of the firebox either side of the whistle which were conspicuously absent from the kit.

DJH 4mm Highland Barney Scratch Built Injector Pipes

I did my usual trick of filing up thin walled tube tube to make the unions and added them to .8mm rod to make a representation of the pipe work.

DJH 4mm Scale Barney – Loco almost complete

Another evening session saw the Barney almost complete. It still needs steps and handrails but for the latter I need to buy in some long handrail knobs because initially I had only bought shot ones. I also need to source some turned buffers for the Jones Goods so I have emailed Andrew Hartshorne to see if he has anything suitable in his range.

DJH 4mm Highland Barney Loco Body

DJH 4mm Highland Barney Loco Body

DJH 4mm Highland Barney Loco Body

DJH 4mm Highland Barney Loco and Tender

It looks like there will be plenty of hacking of the body to get the coupling rods to clear the foot plate but I also think that the oil pots on the coupling rods will benefit from a  bit of refinement too to make them a bit more scale. This should help with the clearance issues but before I start on that I plan to get the Jones Goods to a similar state of build.

DJH 4mm Scale Highland Barney – Tender Complete

I cracked on with the tender and completed it apart from fitting the couplings

DJH 4mm Highland Barney – Tender Finished

DJH 4mm Highland Barney – Tender Finished

DJH 4mm Highland Barney – Tender Finished

DJH 4mm Highland Barney – Tender Finished

Next I started on the loco frames. They are made of substantial stuff for a 4mm scale kit – 0.9mm etch.

DJH 4mm Highland Barney – Chassis

DJH 4mm Highland Barney – Chassis

DJH 4mm Highland Barney – Chassis

 

 

 

A Slight Diversion – A 4mm Scale DJH Highland ‘Barney’

A good while ago I was asked if I would do a couple of DJH 4mm Locos and having agreed I said that I would endeavour to have them finished by the end of the year. Well as you can see the end of the year is almost upon us so I have broken off the J6 to try to get them done over the Christmas break a couple of sessions have seen the tender well on it’s way for the first one

 

DJH 4mm Highland Barney – Tender

DJH 4mm Highland Barney – Tender

DJH 4mm Highland Barney – Tender

DJH 4mm Highland Barney – Tender

DJH 4mm Highland Barney – Tender

I scratch built a vac pipe as it wasn’t included in the kit and I replaced the brake stanchion with one that I had in my spares box because the cast one broke as soon as I looked at it.

DJH 4mm Highland Barney – Tender just needing Buffers and front handrails

DJH 4mm Highland Barney – Tender just needing Buffers and front handrails

DJH 4mm Highland Barney – Tender just needing Buffers and front handrails

Gladiator J6 – Valencing

I spent 2 and 1/2 hours last night preparing the cradle for the foot plate which contains the valances….
Some this was my own fault because it’s quite thick nickel silver and like David found out when he built one recently, you need to file a lot out of either side of the fold lines to allow the valances to sit vertical.  I had attempted to fold up one side some time ago which needs a bit of brute strength but then found that it wouldn’t come to 90 degrees.
The first job was to straighten the side already bent enough to allow me to file out the fold line. I did this by annealing with the microflame and then using the vice to squash the etch back almost flat. Once I had filed the fold lines, I bent it as far as I could with one of the sides off a set of bending bars and then used a rubber mallet to bash it to the final 90 degree fold while the middle section was firmly gripped in a second set of bending bars to ensure that it stayed flat.
Hopefully I will get the footplate shaped and soldered on tonight so I will take photos after that.

Ivatt Self Trimming Tender Finished at last with lot’s of learning along the way

Yesterday saw the tender completed apart from wiring the pick ups and setting the ride height which will be done towards the end of the build.
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Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Chassis

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Chassis

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Chassis

You will note that I have added an extra frame spacer. I did this because I am using the tender for pick ups and wanted to ensure that there was no flexing which might affect them – The brass spacer was a scaled up P4 spacer from the spares box which I cut down to fit.

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Complete

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Complete

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Pick ups fitted

Back onto the loco next.

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Upperworks Complete

Because we stayed in Wakefield this weekend it gave me an extra evening at the bench – usually I am worn out by the time we get to Bishop Auckland and rarely do anything once I arrive on Friday evening.
As luck would have it I was able to finish work early too so I had around 5 hours at the bench which saw off the remaining upper works details.
The coal rails were too long and I had to split them at the rear of the tender. I think that this is a result of the cut out in the tender flare for the hand grip which is a feature of this type of tender.
I followed David Hill’s example and soldered half round beading over the coal rails and what an improvement it’s made.
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Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Tender body complete

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Tender body complete

I also put half round beading in one the inside of the front hand grip sections to make it a round profile. and you can see the additional lamp bracket too which wouldn’t focus on my last photo session.

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Tender body complete

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Tender body complete

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Tender body complete

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Tender body complete

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Tender body complete

I also got around not fitting a nut to secure the front of the tender top by tapping a piece of tube and soldering it in when the nut should be.
This just leaves me with the chassis which I have made a start on.

Gladiator J6 – Tender Lamp Irons

I didn’t seem to make much visible progress in last night’s session but I got the lamp irons on and hopefully you can see why I prefer to replace etched versions with cast ones where possible.

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Lamp Irons and Tank filler fitted

 I have also fitted one inside the side sheet at the front of the tender but alas the camera decided to focus on the nearside so the added lamp iron came out so blurred you couldn’t see it.
I will try again when I next take photos.
I did manage to add the tank filler though so another detail bites the dust.

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Lamp Irons and Tank filler fitted

Coal rails next I think.