Gladiator J6 – Valencing

I spent 2 and 1/2 hours last night preparing the cradle for the foot plate which contains the valances….
Some this was my own fault because it’s quite thick nickel silver and like David found out when he built one recently, you need to file a lot out of either side of the fold lines to allow the valances to sit vertical.  I had attempted to fold up one side some time ago which needs a bit of brute strength but then found that it wouldn’t come to 90 degrees.
The first job was to straighten the side already bent enough to allow me to file out the fold line. I did this by annealing with the microflame and then using the vice to squash the etch back almost flat. Once I had filed the fold lines, I bent it as far as I could with one of the sides off a set of bending bars and then used a rubber mallet to bash it to the final 90 degree fold while the middle section was firmly gripped in a second set of bending bars to ensure that it stayed flat.
Hopefully I will get the footplate shaped and soldered on tonight so I will take photos after that.

Ivatt Self Trimming Tender Finished at last with lot’s of learning along the way

Yesterday saw the tender completed apart from wiring the pick ups and setting the ride height which will be done towards the end of the build.
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Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Chassis

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Chassis

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Chassis

You will note that I have added an extra frame spacer. I did this because I am using the tender for pick ups and wanted to ensure that there was no flexing which might affect them – The brass spacer was a scaled up P4 spacer from the spares box which I cut down to fit.

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Complete

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Complete

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Pick ups fitted

Back onto the loco next.

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Upperworks Complete

Because we stayed in Wakefield this weekend it gave me an extra evening at the bench – usually I am worn out by the time we get to Bishop Auckland and rarely do anything once I arrive on Friday evening.
As luck would have it I was able to finish work early too so I had around 5 hours at the bench which saw off the remaining upper works details.
The coal rails were too long and I had to split them at the rear of the tender. I think that this is a result of the cut out in the tender flare for the hand grip which is a feature of this type of tender.
I followed David Hill’s example and soldered half round beading over the coal rails and what an improvement it’s made.
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Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Tender body complete

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Tender body complete

I also put half round beading in one the inside of the front hand grip sections to make it a round profile. and you can see the additional lamp bracket too which wouldn’t focus on my last photo session.

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Tender body complete

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Tender body complete

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Tender body complete

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Tender body complete

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Tender body complete

I also got around not fitting a nut to secure the front of the tender top by tapping a piece of tube and soldering it in when the nut should be.
This just leaves me with the chassis which I have made a start on.

Gladiator J6 – Tender Lamp Irons

I didn’t seem to make much visible progress in last night’s session but I got the lamp irons on and hopefully you can see why I prefer to replace etched versions with cast ones where possible.

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Lamp Irons and Tank filler fitted

 I have also fitted one inside the side sheet at the front of the tender but alas the camera decided to focus on the nearside so the added lamp iron came out so blurred you couldn’t see it.
I will try again when I next take photos.
I did manage to add the tank filler though so another detail bites the dust.

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Lamp Irons and Tank filler fitted

Coal rails next I think.

Gladiator J6 – Detailing the tender top

Further progress on the tender for the J6. Starting off with a slight backward step.
While struggling with the instructions I hadn’t read the text when fitting the lifting eyes I just followed the drawing which unfortunately showed the wrong type of backing plate. Reading through the text late last week I saw my error and by coincidence David Hill of Gladiator pointed it out the day after on the Guild forum.
My customer had seen the post and said it didn’t matter if they didn’t show too much but it was only a few minutes of a job with the microflame and a scalpel to take them off and swap them for the right ones.

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – some details added

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Lifting Eye backing plate

Next I added the vacuum and steam heat pipes to the rear of the tender.

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – some details added

Then I started on the front.

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – some details added

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – some details added

The brake standard was one that I had in my spares box that was left over from the B16 build. The other levers are bent wire and scrap etch.

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – some details added

The bucket is one of Jim McGeown’s castings that I had sat on my desk for a long time after I had made a bit of a mess of trying to hollow it out.
I took it back into the workshop to see if I could do anything with it after being informed that the hole in the left hand side was for a bucket. I then remembered the collets that I had made for drilling the valve guide castings on the Streamlined Duchess and used one of them to tidy up the inside of the bucket top using a dental burr and lastly soldered a handle on from scrap etch.

Bucket for J6 Tender

Slaters Ale Wagons – from LMS Cattle Wagons

While in the North East on a weekend recently I have been doing a bit of wagon building on the workbench all by coincidence from Slaters are three LMS Cattle wagons, a couple of  BR vans and an NER 20 ton hopper. The cattle wagons are to be finished as Ale wagons and much progress was made on them this weekend.
Gogin from this:
To this.

Slaters LMS Cattle Wagons – to be finished as Ale wagons

Slaters LMS Cattle Wagons – to be finished as Ale wagons

Slaters LMS Cattle Wagons – to be finished as Ale wagons

I also managed to get all the roofs canvassed and a coat of primer
Just before posting this I also got them primed.

Gladiator J6 Tender Fundamentals complete

More progress last night. Despite starting quite late I managed to get the two coal space sides in place.
I had anticipated that one of them may not fit very well and might leave a gap that would in fairness be hidden by the coal but I was pleasantly surprised when after a little tweaking with pliers and a rub of some abrasive paper it went into place as it should. Just the details and coal rails to add now.

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Coal space complete

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Coal space complete

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Coal space complete

I am not sure why but I chose to use shiny sinks to clean it up after I finished instead of my usual Bar Keepers Friend and it turned all the solder black making it look to be worse than it is.

More Tender moments and it’s not even anywhere near Valentines day

Last Thursday evening I made much progress on the tender for the J6.
The coal plate is now in as is the front section of the tender.

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender coal plate fitted

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender coal plate fitted

Gladiator J6 Ivatt Self Trimming Tender coal plate fitted

There is still a goodly amount of cleaning up to do and the sides of the coal space are still to solder in but I feel that I have broken it’s back now.

Tender and Grilled without a barbie in sight…

And then there were two, I successfully made the second grill last night so that’s a bit of a relief.
I am still awaiting some of the replacement bits for the chassis – they were ordered later after my customer decided that he would like the chassis improved too.

N7/3 Scratch Built Rear Window Half Coal Bars – and then there were two

Having made the second grill for the N7 I then picked up the tender front for the J6 and made the last small piece to get the main structure of the tender front ready for fitting and final details.

Gladiator J6 Tender Front – last bits before the details

N7 Half Height Coal Bars on the Rear of the Cab

One of the more difficult aspects of the refurbishment of the N7 in my mind was the half height coal bars on the rear windows of the cab and I had been wracking my brains as to the best method of drilling the rear of the cab in situ to get the holes both in a line and equally spaced while not being able to get the drill bit at 90 degrees to the workpiece.
At the same time I was also struggling from the photos that I had to work out just how many bars there are as luck would have it a bit of web surfing turned up a partial shot of the back of the cab back of the preserved engine  and this a is a further snip of that showing my get out of jail free card
This meant that I could make them off the loco and fit them as a single unit. Some time later making best use of the Proxxon mini drill and coordinate table, had me with two pairs of strips each with 9 x 0.5mm holes 1.2mm apart. The eagle eyed will also note that I have put additional holes in each end for the retaining bolts.
Before packing it in for the night I had the first one soldered up ready for fitting.

N7/3 Scratch Built Rear Window Half Coal Bars

N7/3 Scratch Built Rear Window Half Coal Bars

I just need to do the other and then I think that I have broken the back of the difficult bits so I will return to the J6 until the rest of the parts orders arrive.

Nuts and all that

Despite cleaning up the N7 and ordering the bits for it the mojo has been a bit lacking since I returned from my jollies so I decided to have a play with my lathe to see if I could kick start the mojo.
My first effort turned to dismay when I found that the tail stock didn’t centre on the work piece and then when attempting to turn a short length of brass rod, it was turning off centre – great for turning crank shafts perhaps but useless for what it’s designed for.
All sorts of fears went through my mind from worn bearings to faulty chuck. So I started a bit of trouble shooting and having swapped the 3 jaw chuck for a Jacobs drill chuck I found that the running with that was concentric and I turned the thicker end of the example below. This left the fault being with the 3 jaw chuck. I very quickly deduced that when I have taken the jaws out to clean them I hadn’t got them back right. I tried each combination in turn trying to get them to go back evenly by screwing them on but didn’t have any luck. In the end I had to strip down the chuck by removing the mounting plate and then removing the circlip from the back to get the front plate far enough away from the back plate to allow the three jaws to slip over the spiral and into the centre equally spaced. Then I pushed the font and back plates together and reinserted the circlip. All looked well so I added the mounting plate and tried again.
Thankfully this seems to have resolved the problem and the other end it the result from using the 3 jaw chuck.
Now by now you may be wondering what this has to do with the N7 and the answer is absolutely nothing but it did restore my mojo so being in a machine tool mood I set to drilling out the buffer stocks for the fake mounting bolts.
A while ago I mentioned that I had a Proxxon Dividing head. Up to now I haven’t actually used it but it was bought with this very thing in mind and it very quickly turned these

Walsall Model Engineering GER Buffer Shanks with added bolt detail

Into these

Walsall Model Engineering GER Buffer Shanks with added bolt detail

I then proceeded to make some fake nuts by filing hexagonal flats on some microbore tube
Using a pin vice as a guide – A technique that I picked up from Nick Dunhill.

Walsall Model Engineering GER Buffer Shanks with added bolt detail

Once filed up short lengths were cut off using a scalpel and a piece of 0.8mm rod inserted into the tube. This rod was subsequently cut to length and soldered onto the buffer shanks to give these

Walsall Model Engineering GER Buffer Shanks with added bolt detail

I took the photo when I had done two but all four were done before I packed in for the evening.

Connoisseur Models N7 Rebuild/Upgrade

This one is a little different for me, the gent that I am building the J6 for is building a layout based on Hitchen in the late 1950’s/early 1960’s and N7’s were there a plenty. He has several N7/5’s but needed at least one N7/3 so he bought one already built from Ellis via eBAY.
It’s lacking some detail and has some that needs to be removed.
The photos below are as it came to me and are copyright of my customer and used here with his permission.
It’s new identity is to be 69618 and I am working to a supplied photo of the engine as at 23rd May 1959
So far this is what I have observed needs to be done:
  • Window guards to rear cab – half height of windows
  • Condensing pipes  – remove
  • Safety valves, remove base and refit/replace
  • Vacuum ejector pipe – boiler to cab
  • Remove valve from dome
  • Hinge on smoke box door
  • Move lamp iron from top of boiler to smokebox door
  • Step on Piano front
  • Knobs on Piano front
  • Oilers under smoke box door – either side
  • Steps on tank fronts
  • Plate in coal rails
  • Glaze cab
  • Reversing lever and fittings under boiler to help disguise worm gear from motor
  • Move steps from outside of valance to where they should be.
Before going on holiday 3 weeks ago I bought 10 bottles of nail varnish remover from Wilkinsons (Wilcos) and left the body to soak in it while I was away.
Quite a few bits dropped off and others were coaxed to release their grip followed a scrub with Bar Keepers Friend got it to a point where I was able to use the microflame to remove other parts

N7 Rebuild – strip down

N7 Rebuild – strip down

Flares fitted to Ivatt Self Trimming Tender.

Further to my last post below are some photos of the flares as fitted to the J6 self trimming tender. There is still much cleaning up and some filling of the corners with solder to do but so far I am very pleased with how they are going.

Starting with some shots after soldering on the flares but before starting to filling the corners with solder.

Gladiator Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Fitting the flares

Gladiator Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Fitting the flares

Gladiator Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Fitting the flares

Gladiator Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Fitting the flares

Then with the mostly filled in corners.

Gladiator Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Fitting the flares

Gladiator Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Fitting the flares

 

Bending Tender Flares, a short tutorial

As promised on my J6 Build thread after bending the curves in the tender flares I took a series of photos using a piece of scrap to demonstrate how easy it is using a variation of a method described to me by someone on RMweb years ago.
He used the thick rubber heel design for replacing worn ones on shoes I use one of the rubber safe jaws of my Proxxon Vice.
First of all I just use the one soft jaw. You will note that the soft jaw has a thick triangular section that fits in the V groove of the hard vice jaw.

Bending Tender Flares

Opposite that to form the longitudinal curve I use one of the lengths of rod that came with my Metalsmith drilling table.

Bending Tender Flares

Next I fit the strip to have the flare bent in it into the vice between the soft jaw and the rod using the opposite V groove to hold the rod in position and ensure that the bend is going into the thickest part of the rubber soft jaw.

Bending Tender Flares

Once you are happy with the position tighten the jaws to create the bend
In this photo you can just see where it’s pushing against the thicker bit of rubber in the V groove

Bending Tender Flares

Finally a couple of shots of the finished bend.

Bending Tender Flares

Bending Tender Flares

Flares, not those of the trouser persuasion though.

The next job to tackle before starting to assemble everything was the flares and it proved a bit easier than anticipated. Having formed the curves I offered it up the tender and at first I was a little baffled (permanent state of mind at the minute) but quickly realised that I needed to trim the curved end of each side and then it would fit.
I only got part of it soldered on before bed time last night so tonight I will finish that and then take photos.

Modeller’s Block Overcome

Although I haven’t posted anything this week things have been progressing albeit slowly.

The reason for the slow approach has been a combination of a lot of other things intruding and the fact that I couldn’t get my head around how the front coal plate shown in the last post attached to the tender front itself. While I pondered I moved along by fitting hand rail knobs to the tender sides and fitting lifting rings to the coal space sides and tank top/coal chute. I still haven’t assembled the innards because I want all the sub assemblies ready and to have an understand of how things fit before committing myself.

Before getting started on anything last night I re-read the instructions and saw the wood for the trees and ended up with this. Still a bit more to do but I am happy with progress.

Gladiator Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Coal Plate, lifting eyes etc.

There is mention in the instructions of a strip 49mm (I think but I don’t have the instructions to hand so I will edit the post later and confirm) x 4.5mm
but I couldn’t find the part so I used a suitable piece of scrap etch to make the infill piece for the back which forms a shelf behind the coal plate.

Gladiator Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Coal Plate, lifting eyes etc.

 

Gladiator Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Coal Plate, lifting eyes etc.

Gladiator Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Coal Plate, lifting eyes etc.

Lastly although not needed for my build but needed for the revision of the instructions I made up the two dome options which are included a rectangular combined dome/filler and the separate dome.

Gladiator Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Coal Plate, lifting eyes etc.

On the round dome everything was a perfect fit whereas on the combined dome I had to take a sliver of the two half etched overlaps to get them to meet squarely a simple exercise that took moments to do with a pair of topiary scissors

Gladiator Ivatt Self Trimming Tender – Coal Plate, lifting eyes etc.