Crank Pin Bushes

My method (it’s not my idea just one I have picked up from other builders) of fitting Crank pins to Slaters wheels.
For this build the front and rear drivers have the standard 12ba crank pin as provided by Slaters with their wheels. The centre axle has had the 12ba cheese head screw replaced with a 10ba countersunk screw. This is to allow the crank pin bush to be tapped 10ba and an additional bush to be added and again tapped 10ba so that they can be screwed in opposite each other to house both the couple and connecting rods (on this particular kit the extra bush was available because a pair of smaller bushes had been provided for the front axle to ensure clearance for the crossheads).
As well as tapping the crank pin bushes 10ba, I also tap the wheel itself allowing the screw to be tightened and retained.
I must admit for my own builds I tend to replace all my crank pins with 10ba and blacken the wheels but I was told not to for this build.

Use of 10ba crank pins for return cranks

You can see the difference in screw sizes from the back of the wheel.

Use of 10ba crank pins for return cranks

I also drilled and tapped the return crank itself but it will be soldered to the bush once I have cut it to the correct length and made sure that the crank is in the right orientation.

Use of 10ba crank pins for return cranks

Use of 10ba crank pins for return cranks

The Kirk Twins reappear on the workbench.

This weekend saw the previous weekends efforts all come together.

Ian Kirk Twinset in 7mm – Roofs and Seats fitted

Ian Kirk Twinset in 7mm – Roofs and Seats fitted

Ian Kirk Twinset in 7mm – Roofs and Seats fitted

Ian Kirk Twinset in 7mm – Roofs and Seats fitted

Ian Kirk Twinset in 7mm – Roofs and Seats fitted

Ian Kirk Twinset in 7mm – Roofs and Seats fitted

The plan is to make the roofs removable by screwing into the base of the seats that are attached to the roof.

DJH Streamlined Coronation Front Bogie

With the trailing truck behind me (see what I did there), I started on the bogie.
Sadly having rescued the and fitted the springs where they should go you don’t see much of them once it’s assembled.
Now you see them….

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Bogie

Now you don’t….

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Bogie

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Bogie

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Bogie

I also made a start on the valve gear but more on that later.

DJH Streamlined Coronation Trailing Truck

After doing battle with the cylinders and struggling with a drill bit broken off in one of the valve guides which I have yet to resolve (but I do have a fall back position should I need it) I decided that for a bit of light relief I would make up the bogie and trailing truck.
I started with the trailing truck for now other reason than I had some of the bit’s already removed from the fret during the course of removing other bits.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Trailing Truck

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Trailing Truck

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Trailing Truck

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Trailing Truck

Sadly I had got to this bit when I realised that I had made an error in my interpretation of the instructions. You get two options of spring/axle box for the trailing truck. You get an axle box and full thickness spring combined and an etched spring separate axle box and some hanger castings. There are also a pair of thinner springs which I had attached as in the photos above.
The idea being that you use the full thickness castings for loco where they are to be used on track radius of greater than 7 feet or use the etched ones for less than 7 feet radius. It was only when looking at the bogie that I realised the the thinner cast springs were in fact for the bogie rather than the trailing truck and it all made sense. thankfully it was the work of a few minutes to swap them over and put the etched ones where they belong. There were some castings provided for the spring hangers as I mentioned but 2 of them were missing so I cut some off the thicker castings to make up the set.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Trailing Truck

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Coupling Rods

Following on my my note on the coupling rods I managed to get a couple of photos of them now that they are soldered up.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Coupling Rods

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Coupling Rods

And then a couple that will hopefully show how much I had to file out of the cylinder castings….

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Cylinders

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Cylinders

Essentially the slots bottom left and top right were almost full of whitemetal so I used an older square file to remove the material. Now that I have the lathe with the milling attachment I suspect that I might have used a burr to mill out the material much more efficiently. Something to remember should I encounter anything similar in the future.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – a Bit of Improvisation

I was cracking on quite nicely with the chassis but when I got to the next phase of the instructions I found one of the castings missing.
This is the offending article, there should be one at each side.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Motion Bracket

After umming and ahhing as to what to do I decided it would be simpler to scratch another than to wait for the owner to source one from Tower/DJH.
Poor photo  but this is it made from scrap etch and some wire filed half round.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Motion Bracket

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Motion Bracket

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Motion Bracket

Last night saw me make up the coupling rods which all went swimmingly until I got to pinning them together at the joint. The instructions have you tapping one side 12ba to screw a cast threaded pin into. Having done the first side I quickly realised that the thread on the pin is way smaller than 12 ba Bah!! :headbanger:
The other side I tapped 14ba and I ran a 14ba die down the cast thread,  I screwed it into the tapped hole and the threaded section promptly broke off in the hole:hammer: Tonights task is to solder the pins into the back of the hole as I would have done with a rivet of Premier Rods. Onwards and Upwards…..

DJH Streamlined Coronation – on with the Chassis

So it’s onto the loco chassis,
I made a start on Saturday afternoon and up to last night I had made it to

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Basic Loco Chassis

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Basic Loco Chassis

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Loco Chassis Brakes and minor details fitted

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Loco Chassis Brakes and minor details fitted

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Loco Chassis Brakes and minor details fitted

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Loco Chassis Brakes and minor details fitted

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Loco Chassis Brakes and minor details fitted

Which brought me to the end of drawing number 2 of the chassis instructions.
I made one minor error in that I got one of the chassis spacers/supports the wrong way up which meant that the hole for the brake cylinder was in the wrong place. Rather than take the chassis apart again I just redrilled the hole at the other end of the spacer and filed the tabs of a couple of brackets that should have fit into some slots. Job done and brakes fitted as they should be.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – It’s getting busy back there

Once the rear bulkhead was soldered in, next up I concentrated on getting the many details on the rear of the tender added.

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Side farings and rear bulkhead attached

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Side farings and rear bulkhead attached

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Side farings and rear bulkhead attached

It’s quite busy back there…

More DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender Moments

Where had we got to?
Once I had the sides to the right shape and soldered to the bunker rear I set about detailing the front and rear bulkheads. As I mentioned in York Paul’s thread I fitted all the whitemetal castings to the rear bulkhead prior to fitting it. Those on the front bulkhead await fitting.
in true perverse DJH fashion, although the front bulk head and many of it’s constituent parts are half etched the rear bulkhead is full thickness.
Front Bulkhead

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Bulk heads and other sub assemblies

Rear Bulkhead

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Bulk heads and other sub assemblies

Streamlined Cover and Ladder for the rear of the Tender.

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Bulk heads and other sub assemblies

Dealing with the thickness of the metal has been a real learning curve on this one because my 80 Watt Ersa solder station won’t touch it with 145 degree solder at my usual 340 degree setting.
I have had to whack it up to 400 to get the solder to run. This has meant that much of the soldering has been done with the microflame including (and this may want some of you to lay in a darkened room…:facepalm:) the whitemetal bits.

Sorting out Tender frustrations – DJH Streamlined Coronation

Following on from my earlier post , the tender sides are battleship plate thickness. They come pre bent to shape to follow the bulkheads – what a shame the bends were too low

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Reforming the flare

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Reforming the flare

I used my my cheap cooks torch bought from Lidl just before christmas. I have found it’s too hot and uncontrollable for soldering but it’s great for annealing.

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Reforming the flare

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Reforming the flare

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender

However, before you get to the tender sides in the instructions, the next section has you making up the coal chute and coal pusher which went together perfectly.
Finally I popped along to the NRM at York and was able to get on board Duchess of Hamilton and take a comparison photo

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender

How I do return Cranks

For this build the front and rear drivers have the standard 12ba crank pin as provided by Slaters with their wheels. The centre axle has had the 12ba cheese head screw replaced with a 10ba countersunk screw. This is to allow the crank pin bush to be tapped 10ba and an additional bush to be added and again tapped 10ba so that they can be screwed in opposite each other to house both the couple and connecting rods (on this particular kit the extra bush was available because a pair of smaller bushes had been provided for the front axle to ensure clearance for the crossheads).
As well as tapping the crank pin bushes 10ba, I also tap the wheel itself allowing the screw to be tightened and retained.
I must admit for my own builds I tend to replace all my crank pins with 10ba and blacken the wheels but I was told not to for this build.

Use of 10ba crank pins for return cranks

You can see the difference in screw sizes from the back of the wheel.

Use of 10ba crank pins for return cranks

I also drilled and tapped the return crank itself but it will be soldered to the bush once I have cut it to the correct length and made sure that the crank is in the right orientation.

Use of 10ba crank pins for return cranks

Use of 10ba crank pins for return cranks

Making the most of what you have…

My recent lathe purchase has started me thinking about making the most of some of my other tools. I used to do quite a bit of woodworking until we converted our garage and I no longer had the room for many of the woodworking tools so I sold them.
What I kept were, chop saw, Router/router table and a linisher. The Router/router table, until a couple of weeks ago was in my loft so not accessible for regular use and my linisher while slightly more accessible by being under my workbench had only seen the light of day once in the last 5 years.
Prompted by getting something out of the loft I decided to get the Router/router table and the linisher out and take them to the other house where I have a dry brick built garage that’s alarmed. Fast forward to this weekend and I decided to start making use of them so used the linisher to prepare all the partitions for the twin set. Each one needed to be profiles to fit the vacuum formed Kirk roof and it certainly made a much easier job of the 17 or so partitions plus the coach ends.

Ian Kirk coach partitions

Preparing Ian Kirk coach partitions using a Linishing machine

I reckon what I achieved today would have taken at least a couple of weekend’s work to achieve filing by hand.

DJH/Tower Models Streamlined Coronation Build

On Easter Sunday afternoon I had a phone call from a gent that puts a lot of work my way asking if I could fit in building a DJH Streamlined Coronation as soon as possible. The Gent that I am building the J6 for is in no rush so I decided to have a bash.
The kit was dult delivered on Sunday evening and by bedtime I had the basic tender chassis together.
Another couple of hours on Monday morning had the tender chassis complete, so far so good.

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender

To a degree I feel that any criticism that I make of this kit is a bit like sour grapes given that I chose the David Andrews kit over the Tower/DJH version when I bought mine.
That said, hiding what I find doesn’t help anyone else who may decide to build one of these.
The key issue with the tender chassis is that the cross members that fit between the wheels are  a single half etched layer in the middle section, which makes them very vulnerable to bending. This and other areas where key parts are a single half etched layer (more on that later) are particularly noticeable to me when this build comes right on the heels of building the MOK LMS tender which is prototypically similar in many respects.
Although I don’t know the name of the loco that the model is to ultimately represent I have been asked to build it as one of the double chimney red ones – Apparently there were some differences on the red ones over the first few blue ones (I had originally planned to build mine as Duchess of Hamilton in Blue when Coronation was masquerading as DOH while DOH went to America masquerading as Coronation, confused yet…..). Luckily the kit also came with a loan of the Wild Swan/NRM Loco Priles book for the Coronation Pacifics.

Ian Kirk Twin Set Underframe fittings

Although I haven’t posted on this for a while things have progressed but there hasn’t been much to take photos of.
We had decided to try the Sparmac queen posts from Invertrain while all the other fittings (vac tanks, roof vents, grab handles etc.) came from JLRT late last year before they closed although they look similar the key different in the Sparmac queen posts is the fact that they don’t have holes for the truss rods to go through. I popped them with a punch, deepend the mark with a pin vice and then used my Proxxon Pillar drill to finish them off. Sadly taking the photos has just highlighted to me that I have missed drilling through one the holes so I will need to do that one by hand since they are now stuck firmly on.
I also added the vacuum tanks.

Ian Kirk Twin Set – Queen Posts and Vacuum Tanks

Ian Kirk Twin Set – Queen Posts and Vacuum Tanks

Ian Kirk Twin Set – Queen Posts and Vacuum Tanks

Ian Kirk Twin Set – Queen Posts and Vacuum Tanks

Tender Skin…..

This is what it looks like with the overlays on the body. You get two options included in the kit either welded or riveted. I chose riveted because it adds a little more to the character.

LNER 06 (MOK 8F) Tender Top – Outer Skin

LNER 06 (MOK 8F) Tender Top – Outer Skin

LNER 06 (MOK 8F) Tender Top – Outer Skin

These latter two show the front bulkhead now it’s fitted and the fire iron tunnel which fitted perfectly.

LNER 06 (MOK 8F) Tender Top – Outer Skin

LNER 06 (MOK 8F) Tender Top – Fire Iron Tunnel