A tender spot in the instructions – Gladiator J6 with Self Trimming Tender

Well I have to admit I have reached a bit of the kit instructions that have really stumped me…

“Take coal space sides, note the handling and drill 1.85mm at half etched pops if fitting scoop and tank vents, then fold so that the sides fit into the coal space front plate, tack into position taking care to be square to front plate. Sit the assembly into it’s slot in the sole plate and tack onto position square ‘each way'”

I found the parts easily enough and put them together how I interpreted the instructions but then found that there was nowhere/way that they would fit.

Gladiator J6 Coal Chute

Gladiator J6 Coal Chute

Gladiator J6 Coal Chute

Gladiator J6 Coal Chute

There is a plan and top down outline drawing supplied but I can’t figure out from which bit is the coal space front plate or which orientation it fits in.

My only saving grace is that there is one of these tenders attached to the C1 Atlantic at Locomotion so I plan to see if I can get aboard it when I am there next weekend to see how the coal chute/plate is made up on the real thing.

I am on my way to Telford tomorrow so I will have better things to think about until mid next week.

Gladiator GNR Self Trimming Tender

Further work on the tender last night got one of the more difficult bits behind me – bending the one-piece tank sides/end.

However, I will start off with a bit of a gotcha! The instructions tell you if modelling post 1940 to drill out two etched dimples on the rear right hand side of the tender for hand rails that must have been fitted to some tenders at some point.

Having done it I immediately started to think I wonder. Sure, enough when I looked at photos of 64206 which is the loco being modelled I noted no rear handrail….

So, I opened out the holes to 1.55mm and soldered some stubs of rod in – this is it from the inside

Gladiator GNR Self Trimming Tender – fixing a mistake

And from the outside – thankfully nothing shows

Gladiator GNR Self Trimming Tender – fixing a mistake

Next the tender sides are rectangular but on the real thing on the tender that I am working on there are cut outs for a handrail as in this example by Ron Bowyer.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/okJtkh][img]https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5561/14663148970_50f779a2c3_k.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/okJtkh]GNR/LNER Gresley "J6" class 0-6-0 No. 64223.[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/93456400@N04/]Ron Bowyer[/url], on Flickr

I have to confess to struggling with the instructions on this point so I went my own way. There are sections of etched beading to represent this and having worked out for myself how I believe they are meant to fit I tacked them to each end

Gladiator GNR Self Trimming Tender – cutting out for the hand rail

Gladiator GNR Self Trimming Tender – cutting out for the hand rail

This allowed me to scribe a line to cut/file to and then I unsoldered them and removed the bits that needed removing. Time will tell as to whether what I have done is correct but studying various photos it looks right.

The next job was to drill out one of two dimples for the front handrail knob – these are design for a short rail where the top is cut out as I have done or a long rail where the side is left at full height. I drilled out the lower ones.

Then I carefully marked out where the first bend should be and then bent it using my Metalsmith Drilling table with a rod slightly smaller than the required bend clamped to it.

Modified by CombineZP

Modified by CombineZP

 

If this sort of thing scares you take heart. I didn’t get it right first time, I just calmly straightened it with fingers and thumbs finally using smooth bladed pliers to finish off and them remeasured and tried again. The first side (the one in the photos) I got right on the second attempt. The other side took three goes…. but I got there.

Next up is to solder in the bulkhead.

Where the instructions are really lacking is that they refer to parts but don’t number them so you are constantly searching the scans of the etches and the index to find out which part you are looking for – the scans are labelled with part numbers and there is an index but it would be so much better if the instructions had part numbers alongside the text.

Gladiator GNR Self Trimming Tender

Then lastly solder the side/end piece to the footplate.

Gladiator GNR Self Trimming Tender

Gladiator GNR Self Trimming Tender

A tender moment or two with the Gladiator J6

After my interlude with the Streamlined Coronations I am now back on the J6.
Over the last couple of evenings I have prepared the Finney Hornguides/blocks ([s]nicked[/s]) borrowed from my A1 kit until I collect some more from the guys at Telford.
Then I started on the instructions which have you prepare the outer chassis first and then attach it to the tender footplate.
Here’s where I got to on that last night.

Gladiator GNR Self Trimming Tender Chassis

Gladiator GNR Self Trimming Tender Chassis

Southern Pillbox Brake Van finished and sold

Last night saw the Southern Brake Van finished. Anyone who hasn’t used Glue N Glaze before I can thoroughly recommend it.

I added it to small adds and it sold fairly quickly.

Parkside SR-BR Pillbox Brake Van

Parkside SR-BR Pillbox Brake Van

Parkside SR-BR Pillbox Brake Van

Parkside SR-BR Pillbox Brake Van

Parkside SR-BR Pillbox Brake Van

Parkside SR-BR Pillbox Brake Van

Parkside SR-BR Pillbox Brake Van

A touch of the Southern rolling across the bench

During last week I took a little time out on a couple of evenings to get the top coat of paint on ready for transfers.

 

A more knowledgeable gent than I also pointed out that I had made an error with one of the brake linkages so I will have a look at sorting that.

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van

 

I then blackened the buffers and added a decent set of 3 link couplings.

 

To blacken the buffer shanks I heated then to cherry red with the microflame and dunked them in a small pot of oil (I used 3 in 1 but apparently any oil even cooking oil will do the job). When cool take them out and wrap in kitchen paper to soak up all the oil and leave until the next day when they are ready for fitting – Please note this method is only any good for steel buffer heads

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van

 

Parkside Southern Brake Van

I had a really busy weekend this weekend and one the things that I made much progress on was the SR Brake van that I started earlier in the thread.
After work today I gave it blast of primer and here it is.

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van – In Primer

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van – In Primer

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van – In Primer

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van – In Primer

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van – In Primer

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van – In Primer

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van – In Primer

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van – In Primer

Now I have a bit of a dilemma, I plan to sell it once it’s finished (I bought it specifically to build and sell on as I neither model BR or the Southern) and I have seen examples with both screw and 3 link coupling and I am unsure which to add – If I add screw couplings it will add another £5 to the price.
Similarly with a stove, if I add a cast stove it will again add another £5 to the cost. without my adding anything for the assembly etc. of them.
If you were a buyer would you prefer screw couplings and a stove or to get the van £10 cheaper?

Duckets and Dynamos, slow progress on the Kirk Twins

Although modelling time has been limited recently I have made a little more progress with the twins.
I was a bit remiss in not cutting out for the ducket while I had the sides in the flat but I managed.
We now have one of my silhouette cut duckets fitted. This in fact the second attempt because I was a bit heavy handed with polystyrene cement last weekend and the first effort just melted away – this one is stuck more patiently with limonene.

Silhouette Cut Ducket – On Kirk 7mm brake 3rd

I had also prepped some scrap etch for the mounting brackets for the dynamos last weekend and I got those fitted too although from the photo one of them need a minor tweak to it’s shape.

Dynamo Mounting brackets fitted to modified Kirk Dynamos

DJH Streamlined Coronation – From Woe to Recovery

From “Woe to Recovery”, it sounds like the title of a book or film
Where do I start, when assembling the cylinders, one of the jobs was to drill out the valve guides. When I drilled the first one I managed to break a drill bit of in the middle of it. I attempted to get it out by cutting off the rear spigot and drilling small holes around the end of the drill bit but didn’t succeed in getting it out. I popped a bit of rod in the other end and it went a fair way in so I reasoned that I might get away with shortening the rod because the valve stems don’t appear to move that much.
This was what was peeking out of the end of the casting but it wasn’t quite enough to grip.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Motion – Getting out of trouble with a broken drill bit in a whitemetal casting

When I broke the drill bit off in the first casting, I decided to make a collet to allow me to better grip the second casting without damage and I was able to drill the second one without issue.
This is the collet and another view of my attempts to remove the offending drill bit stub

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Motion – Getting out of trouble with a broken drill bit in a whitemetal casting

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Motion – Getting out of trouble with a broken drill bit in a whitemetal casting
I advised the gent that I am building it for what had happened and that we may need a spare casting but I was going to attempt to work my way past it. During the assembly of the valve gear I carefully measured the amount of valve stem and progressively shortened it until it fit.
Fast forward to giving it a test run and it dropped out of the guide jamming up the valve gear.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Motion – Getting out of trouble

When this happened on Tuesday evening I took the wise course and stopped to ponder.
First thing yesterday morning as I was getting up for work, Chris said I have the solution to getting the drill bit out and proceeded to explain the idea that she had dreamt while asleep. The idea was basically, to cut a cut down the side of the casting to relieve the grip from the whitemetal and then drift the stub out.
After dinner I went into the workshop to take the valve gear to bits and unsolder the valve guide casting. I then out the casting in the collet and after a bit of a fiddle managed to get the seam of the casting lined up with the slit in the collet and gripped in the vice.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Motion – Getting out of trouble with a broken drill bit in a whitemetal casting

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Motion – Getting out of trouble, making the cut

That done and using an old Exacto Blade, I proceeded to cut through the side of the casting using some odour free white spirit as a lubricant (made more essential by the fact that this Exacto blade has a slight kink at one end). I kept steadily cutting until I felt the blade grating on the side of the drill bit stub (why I used an old blade) and then removed the casting from the vice.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Motion – Getting out of trouble, making the cut

The next bit’s I forgot to take photos of but using another broken drill bit as a drift I placed the bottom end of the casting on a block of wood which I have on my bench with the protruding stub of the drill over a hole that I had drilled when going through something previously (it doesn’t quite look like swiss cheese but there are a good few holes in it).
The drift moved the drill bit out a few millimetres further, to the point where I was able to grip it in a pin vice. I was then able to grip the casting in my hand and a twist of the pin vice had it free.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Motion – Getting out of trouble, success at last

I then filled the seam with 70 degree solder and using the collet as a heat sink I soldered the casting back on and cleaned it up. In the photo below the seam is uppermost and is to all intents and purposes invisible.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Motion – Getting out of trouble, casting repaired

Lastly I dismantled and remade the valve stem. The original is two layers of etch. I made the replacement from a piece of 1.10mm brass rod. I am not too happy with the boss so I plan to have another go later this morning.
This is the shortened version.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Motion – Getting out of trouble, shortened valve stem

This is with the bit that I had cut off

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Motion – Getting out of trouble, shortened valve stem

Lastly this is the replacement.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Motion – Getting out of trouble, replacement valve stem

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Assembly of the motion

Despite many distractions recently I have made slow progress on the Coronation.
One of the easier wins over the weekend was to epoxy the balance weights on – the instructions have you do this much earlier in the build but I seem to have a tendency to do them as late as possible and I am not sure why.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Balance weights fitted

Then on to the fun bits, I wanted to make the valve gear removable for painting so some mods were needed
This is what the front of the frames looked like with slots where the cylinders fed through to attach to the top of the frame spacer.

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Loco Chassis Brakes and minor details fitted

This was what they look like after a visit from my piercing saw.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Cut outs to make motion removable

Then I needed to make some spacers to attach the two cylinders together

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Spacers to make cylinders removable

Doing this meant that the 2mm diameter screws provided were not long enough so I retapped the holes 8BA and added some longer 8 ba screws. to hold them on.
next I soldered the slide bars to the motion bracket frame and started to assemble the valve gear

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Assembled motion

DJH provide 14ba screws/nut to assemble the valve gear which I have used but I have also done a belt and braces approach by tapping all the holes 14ba too which allows the nut to be locked on. Most of them also needed to be filed back for clearance purposes.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Assembled motion

Last night I fitted the motor into the basic chassis and ran it for a while with the connecting rods attached. It was a good sign that nothing decided to unscrew itself while it ran (which can be a sign of something amiss).
Hopefully tonight will see the valve gear fitted and tested before stripping it back down ready for Warren to paint.

Crank Pin Bushes

My method (it’s not my idea just one I have picked up from other builders) of fitting Crank pins to Slaters wheels.
For this build the front and rear drivers have the standard 12ba crank pin as provided by Slaters with their wheels. The centre axle has had the 12ba cheese head screw replaced with a 10ba countersunk screw. This is to allow the crank pin bush to be tapped 10ba and an additional bush to be added and again tapped 10ba so that they can be screwed in opposite each other to house both the couple and connecting rods (on this particular kit the extra bush was available because a pair of smaller bushes had been provided for the front axle to ensure clearance for the crossheads).
As well as tapping the crank pin bushes 10ba, I also tap the wheel itself allowing the screw to be tightened and retained.
I must admit for my own builds I tend to replace all my crank pins with 10ba and blacken the wheels but I was told not to for this build.

Use of 10ba crank pins for return cranks

You can see the difference in screw sizes from the back of the wheel.

Use of 10ba crank pins for return cranks

I also drilled and tapped the return crank itself but it will be soldered to the bush once I have cut it to the correct length and made sure that the crank is in the right orientation.

Use of 10ba crank pins for return cranks

Use of 10ba crank pins for return cranks

The Kirk Twins reappear on the workbench.

This weekend saw the previous weekends efforts all come together.

Ian Kirk Twinset in 7mm – Roofs and Seats fitted

Ian Kirk Twinset in 7mm – Roofs and Seats fitted

Ian Kirk Twinset in 7mm – Roofs and Seats fitted

Ian Kirk Twinset in 7mm – Roofs and Seats fitted

Ian Kirk Twinset in 7mm – Roofs and Seats fitted

Ian Kirk Twinset in 7mm – Roofs and Seats fitted

The plan is to make the roofs removable by screwing into the base of the seats that are attached to the roof.

DJH Streamlined Coronation Front Bogie

With the trailing truck behind me (see what I did there), I started on the bogie.
Sadly having rescued the and fitted the springs where they should go you don’t see much of them once it’s assembled.
Now you see them….

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Bogie

Now you don’t….

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Bogie

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Bogie

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Bogie

I also made a start on the valve gear but more on that later.

DJH Streamlined Coronation Trailing Truck

After doing battle with the cylinders and struggling with a drill bit broken off in one of the valve guides which I have yet to resolve (but I do have a fall back position should I need it) I decided that for a bit of light relief I would make up the bogie and trailing truck.
I started with the trailing truck for now other reason than I had some of the bit’s already removed from the fret during the course of removing other bits.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Trailing Truck

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Trailing Truck

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Trailing Truck

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Trailing Truck

Sadly I had got to this bit when I realised that I had made an error in my interpretation of the instructions. You get two options of spring/axle box for the trailing truck. You get an axle box and full thickness spring combined and an etched spring separate axle box and some hanger castings. There are also a pair of thinner springs which I had attached as in the photos above.
The idea being that you use the full thickness castings for loco where they are to be used on track radius of greater than 7 feet or use the etched ones for less than 7 feet radius. It was only when looking at the bogie that I realised the the thinner cast springs were in fact for the bogie rather than the trailing truck and it all made sense. thankfully it was the work of a few minutes to swap them over and put the etched ones where they belong. There were some castings provided for the spring hangers as I mentioned but 2 of them were missing so I cut some off the thicker castings to make up the set.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Trailing Truck

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Coupling Rods

Following on my my note on the coupling rods I managed to get a couple of photos of them now that they are soldered up.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Coupling Rods

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Coupling Rods

And then a couple that will hopefully show how much I had to file out of the cylinder castings….

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Cylinders

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Cylinders

Essentially the slots bottom left and top right were almost full of whitemetal so I used an older square file to remove the material. Now that I have the lathe with the milling attachment I suspect that I might have used a burr to mill out the material much more efficiently. Something to remember should I encounter anything similar in the future.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – a Bit of Improvisation

I was cracking on quite nicely with the chassis but when I got to the next phase of the instructions I found one of the castings missing.
This is the offending article, there should be one at each side.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Motion Bracket

After umming and ahhing as to what to do I decided it would be simpler to scratch another than to wait for the owner to source one from Tower/DJH.
Poor photo  but this is it made from scrap etch and some wire filed half round.

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Motion Bracket

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Motion Bracket

DJH Streamlined Coronation – Motion Bracket

Last night saw me make up the coupling rods which all went swimmingly until I got to pinning them together at the joint. The instructions have you tapping one side 12ba to screw a cast threaded pin into. Having done the first side I quickly realised that the thread on the pin is way smaller than 12 ba Bah!! :headbanger:
The other side I tapped 14ba and I ran a 14ba die down the cast thread,  I screwed it into the tapped hole and the threaded section promptly broke off in the hole:hammer: Tonights task is to solder the pins into the back of the hole as I would have done with a rivet of Premier Rods. Onwards and Upwards…..

DJH Streamlined Coronation – on with the Chassis

So it’s onto the loco chassis,
I made a start on Saturday afternoon and up to last night I had made it to

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Basic Loco Chassis

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Basic Loco Chassis

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Loco Chassis Brakes and minor details fitted

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Loco Chassis Brakes and minor details fitted

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Loco Chassis Brakes and minor details fitted

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Loco Chassis Brakes and minor details fitted

DJH Streamlined Coronation Tender – Loco Chassis Brakes and minor details fitted

Which brought me to the end of drawing number 2 of the chassis instructions.
I made one minor error in that I got one of the chassis spacers/supports the wrong way up which meant that the hole for the brake cylinder was in the wrong place. Rather than take the chassis apart again I just redrilled the hole at the other end of the spacer and filed the tabs of a couple of brackets that should have fit into some slots. Job done and brakes fitted as they should be.