Southern Pillbox Brake Van finished and sold

Last night saw the Southern Brake Van finished. Anyone who hasn’t used Glue N Glaze before I can thoroughly recommend it.

I added it to small adds and it sold fairly quickly.

Parkside SR-BR Pillbox Brake Van

Parkside SR-BR Pillbox Brake Van

Parkside SR-BR Pillbox Brake Van

Parkside SR-BR Pillbox Brake Van

Parkside SR-BR Pillbox Brake Van

Parkside SR-BR Pillbox Brake Van

Parkside SR-BR Pillbox Brake Van

A touch of the Southern rolling across the bench

During last week I took a little time out on a couple of evenings to get the top coat of paint on ready for transfers.

 

A more knowledgeable gent than I also pointed out that I had made an error with one of the brake linkages so I will have a look at sorting that.

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van

 

I then blackened the buffers and added a decent set of 3 link couplings.

 

To blacken the buffer shanks I heated then to cherry red with the microflame and dunked them in a small pot of oil (I used 3 in 1 but apparently any oil even cooking oil will do the job). When cool take them out and wrap in kitchen paper to soak up all the oil and leave until the next day when they are ready for fitting – Please note this method is only any good for steel buffer heads

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van

 

Parkside Southern Brake Van

I had a really busy weekend this weekend and one the things that I made much progress on was the SR Brake van that I started earlier in the thread.
After work today I gave it blast of primer and here it is.

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van – In Primer

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van – In Primer

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van – In Primer

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van – In Primer

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van – In Primer

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van – In Primer

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van – In Primer

Parkside SR Pillbox Brake Van – In Primer

Now I have a bit of a dilemma, I plan to sell it once it’s finished (I bought it specifically to build and sell on as I neither model BR or the Southern) and I have seen examples with both screw and 3 link coupling and I am unsure which to add – If I add screw couplings it will add another £5 to the price.
Similarly with a stove, if I add a cast stove it will again add another £5 to the cost. without my adding anything for the assembly etc. of them.
If you were a buyer would you prefer screw couplings and a stove or to get the van £10 cheaper?

Duckets and Dynamos, slow progress on the Kirk Twins

Although modelling time has been limited recently I have made a little more progress with the twins.
I was a bit remiss in not cutting out for the ducket while I had the sides in the flat but I managed.
We now have one of my silhouette cut duckets fitted. This in fact the second attempt because I was a bit heavy handed with polystyrene cement last weekend and the first effort just melted away – this one is stuck more patiently with limonene.

Silhouette Cut Ducket – On Kirk 7mm brake 3rd

I had also prepped some scrap etch for the mounting brackets for the dynamos last weekend and I got those fitted too although from the photo one of them need a minor tweak to it’s shape.

Dynamo Mounting brackets fitted to modified Kirk Dynamos

The Kirk Twins reappear on the workbench.

This weekend saw the previous weekends efforts all come together.

Ian Kirk Twinset in 7mm – Roofs and Seats fitted

Ian Kirk Twinset in 7mm – Roofs and Seats fitted

Ian Kirk Twinset in 7mm – Roofs and Seats fitted

Ian Kirk Twinset in 7mm – Roofs and Seats fitted

Ian Kirk Twinset in 7mm – Roofs and Seats fitted

Ian Kirk Twinset in 7mm – Roofs and Seats fitted

The plan is to make the roofs removable by screwing into the base of the seats that are attached to the roof.

Making the most of what you have…

My recent lathe purchase has started me thinking about making the most of some of my other tools. I used to do quite a bit of woodworking until we converted our garage and I no longer had the room for many of the woodworking tools so I sold them.
What I kept were, chop saw, Router/router table and a linisher. The Router/router table, until a couple of weeks ago was in my loft so not accessible for regular use and my linisher while slightly more accessible by being under my workbench had only seen the light of day once in the last 5 years.
Prompted by getting something out of the loft I decided to get the Router/router table and the linisher out and take them to the other house where I have a dry brick built garage that’s alarmed. Fast forward to this weekend and I decided to start making use of them so used the linisher to prepare all the partitions for the twin set. Each one needed to be profiles to fit the vacuum formed Kirk roof and it certainly made a much easier job of the 17 or so partitions plus the coach ends.

Ian Kirk coach partitions

Preparing Ian Kirk coach partitions using a Linishing machine

I reckon what I achieved today would have taken at least a couple of weekend’s work to achieve filing by hand.

Ian Kirk Twin Set Underframe fittings

Although I haven’t posted on this for a while things have progressed but there hasn’t been much to take photos of.
We had decided to try the Sparmac queen posts from Invertrain while all the other fittings (vac tanks, roof vents, grab handles etc.) came from JLRT late last year before they closed although they look similar the key different in the Sparmac queen posts is the fact that they don’t have holes for the truss rods to go through. I popped them with a punch, deepend the mark with a pin vice and then used my Proxxon Pillar drill to finish them off. Sadly taking the photos has just highlighted to me that I have missed drilling through one the holes so I will need to do that one by hand since they are now stuck firmly on.
I also added the vacuum tanks.

Ian Kirk Twin Set – Queen Posts and Vacuum Tanks

Ian Kirk Twin Set – Queen Posts and Vacuum Tanks

Ian Kirk Twin Set – Queen Posts and Vacuum Tanks

Ian Kirk Twin Set – Queen Posts and Vacuum Tanks

Gladiator J6 Modified Loco springs fitted to the frames

Although there hasn’t been much to share, work has been progressing on the J6.
We now have all the springs attached to the frame. Initially I though to have the centre springs removable and the for and aft ones just soldered on but in the end I drilled and tapped them all 12ba so they are all removable should the need arise.

Gladiator J6 Loco Springs Fitted

Gladiator J6 Loco Springs Fitted

Gladiator J6 Loco Springs Fitted

Gladiator J6 Loco Springs Fitted

Gladiator J6 Horn Guides Fitted

Recently I seem to have been spending far too much time browsing and not enough time modelling but I have made some positive progress which I can share.
I have fitted the motions plate with some angle brackets to allow it to be screwed to the frames.

Modified by CombineZP

Not the best photo in the world but hopefully it’s good enough.
Then last night saw the horn guides installed using my Hobby Holidays jig. I also made use of the Use of the springs allowed me to position the horn guides much better without them moving.

Modified by CombineZP

Modified by CombineZP

Because I am using Finney LNER horn guides I now need to file out the bits that protrude into the holes in the frames etc. marked in red on the photo so that’s this evening main task.

Further detail on the Kirk Coach bogies

More done on the bogies over the weekend.
The brakes and yokes are now fitted to all three bogies. not exactly like the real thing but will pass muster hidden away underneath the coach.

Kirk Bogie modifcations – brakes and yokes

Kirk Bogie modifcations – brakes and yokes

Kirk Bogie modifcations – brakes and yokes

If you are wondering why the rod between the two yokes? It’s to hold the brakes away from the tyres to prevent friction.
They just need guard irons over the yokes and they are well on their way.

Parkside NBR Jubilee Mineral Wagon

For those who notice such things, I have managed to correct the brakes being the wrong way around in the photos in my last post.

Plus while working on the Kirk twin art set I have been slowly assembling a Parkside NBR Jubilee Mineral wagon. Not the best mouldings that I have seen from the Parkside stable but I think it will be fine once painted and weathered.

Parkside NBR Jubilee Mineral Wagon

I made the loops that allow the end door to open on the original from 0.6mm styrene rod which I wound around a 0.5mm drill bit in a PIN vice, I then poured boiling water over it and then quenched it in cold water which retained the coil. It was then an easy matter to trim and fit the loops. I used a couple of the off cuts to make the rings for the horse hooks. I would have normally used brass wire for these but I didn’t have any to hand the correct size so I decide to see what I could do with styrene.

Parkside NBR Jubilee Mineral Wagon

Parkside NBR Jubilee Mineral Wagon

The more observant will note that the brake levers are in different positions in the photos. This is done because I find it a real pain masking them off while painting so I decided to make them move.

To achieve this I drilled the back of the lever and glued in a short section of 1.5mm styrene rod. I drilled through the mounting block under the sole bar and then cut a short length of 1.5mm inside diameter styrene tube to fit over the rod once it passed through the mounting block to create a locking washer which retains the lever but allows movement.

Parkside NBR Jubilee Mineral Wagon – Working brake levers

Parkside NBR Jubilee Mineral Wagon

Before it hits the paint shop, I still need to solder the coupling links closed and add the pins and chain to the brake levers.

Stephenson’s Motion 4 Bar Slide Bars – plus a bit of extra detail

Alongside creation of the motion plate, I had to prepare the slide bars and make the cross heads fit.
Once I had them running nice and smooth and having test fitted them in the motion plate,  I detailed them with the very prominent oil pots on the tops. Made from spare etch and nickel rod
I am not sure why but these proved and absolute pain to take photos of…

Gladiator J6 – LG Slide Bars with scratch built oilers

Gladiator J6 – LG Slide Bars with scratch built oilers

Poetry in Motion (Plate…)

I had originally planned to go to Kettering show this weekend with a stop over on Friday night. Taking the decision not to go has given me an extra couple of days of thinking/modelling time in which to really get my head into the inside motion.

Fellow modeller Paul Penn-Sayers had offered to cut out a motion plate for the J6 for me. Paul has also supplied lots of information and patiently answered my ‘newby’ questions regarding inside motion for which I am eternally grateful. While I fully intended to take up the offer events somewhat overtook me.

While studying the GA drawing to work out which bit was which on Wednesday evening I had the thought of importing it into Inkscape (the drawing package that I use to draw for the silhouette), rescaling it to 7mm scale and then highlighting the components that make up the motion so that I could see what they are.

You can see the difference in the layout of the motion compared with the Midland variation in which the motion set from Laurie Griffin is based – below is a snip from the LG instructions.

While I was doing my stuff in Inkscape, Chris suggested using my silhouette to create a template for the motion plate to test whether it would fit between the frames etc. I thought that a great idea and within a very short space of time I had drawn up and cut this

I used that to transfer the measurements onto a spare frame spacer and drilled/cut filed it out. Due to using it as a template to scribe around, some of the measurements were fractionally over size, while the internal ones were slightly undersized. I kept filing until the slide bars fit and I got this. – I added the framing top and bottom afterwards.

Gladiator J6 – Scratch Built Motion Plate

Looking at Paul’s and Nick Dunhill’s superb motion plate examples, I realise that I will have to file some relief in the tops and bottom of the slide bar seats/openings in a similar manner to the centre opening where the eccentric rods will pass through, in order to allow for the up/down movement of the piston rods.

This is it in the frames – held by a blob of Blue tack

Gladiator J6 – Scratch Built Motion Plate

Although as I say I am very grateful to Paul for his offer to cut one out for me and looking at the example posted by Heather Kay on Western Thunder, it would have been of a much higher fidelity than my first effort has achieved but it’s a skill learned and Paul’s help has helped me to make sense of GA’s which has previously eluded me – all the lines blurring into a shapeless mass. Another skill which will only improve with practice and should translate into better quality models at the end of it.

Ian Kirk Diagram 105/125 Twin Set

This weekend saw much progress on the Twin set.

Timely posting of a photo of the brake end allowed me to cut the windows while the end was in the flat and then both coach bodies were assembled.

Kirk Twin Art – Diag 125

Kirk Twin Art – Diag 125

Kirk Twin Art – Diag 105

Kirk Twin Art – Diag 105

I also blanked of the inner ends by filling the holes for the buffers and coupling hooks and then overlaid a piece of 20 thou to form a solid foundation for the shared bogie pivot.

Kirk Twin Battery Box modifications

Lastly I made a start of building up/detailing the battery boxes (although there are five I only need four for this job). Next I need to cut out the end straps with the silhouette because I have run out.

A spring in the step,  or should that read, “some steps with the springs” (groan!)

 
We started with this.
 

Gladiator J6 – Replacement Ragstone Springs

 
I then patiently cut that down to get these separate pieces
 

Gladiator J6 – Loco spring modifications`

 
What I am aiming for is a 3D profile of these
 

Gladiator J6 – Replacement Ragstone Springs

 
Then I started to re-assemble them – and to misquote Eric Morecambe, all the right bits but not necessarily in the right order….
 

Gladiator J6 – Loco spring modifications -part 2

 
Monday evening should see them ready to fit (I hope!)

More Juice on the J6

Further progress has the chassis together and ready for the fitting of the hornblocks. 

Despite the quite substantial frames there was still a bit of flex in between the two main spacers and the rear one which is just soldered to the top left the bottom of the chassis with a tendency to splay outwards. To get over this I have temporarily soldered a third frame spacer (labeled motor spacer in and I also cut one of the wider frame spacers down and soldered it upright to take out the splay at the rear. 

As is comes there are three sets of spacers, marked from when it was blown up from a 4mm kit 00 gauge, EM gauge and P4 I am using the EM gauge spacers as a compromise between getting int to go around 5′ curves and having having sufficient room to fit the inside motion.

 

Gladiator J6 – Loco Chassis

Gladiator J6 – Loco Chassis

Before I go any further I am going to rework the springs and fit them before adding the Horn guides.