Gladiator J6 Transfers Applied

This last week also saw the transfers applied to the J6 a Job I always dread…

Not the best photos in the world but you get the idea.

Gladiator J6 Transfers Applied
Gladiator J6 Transfers Applied
Gladiator J6 Buffer Beams painted and Transfers applied
Gladiator J6 Transfers Applied
Gladiator J6 Transfers Applied

I also got some paint on the plates and the buffer beams

The loco is to be weathered so I wasn’t too fussed that the cover of the white on the numerals isn’t perfect.

Gladiator J6 Springer Dampers Round Two

While working on the brakes I made a small discovery which made things a bit awkward. When rebuilding the springs and dampers from the original Ragstone castings I had set the dampers much too low under the springs. That combined with them being slightly over size and a few of them not quite being round meant that when testing the wheels rubbed on them and the brake pull rods wouldn’t seat properly.

An easy fix I thought. I will turn up some slightly smaller dampers which will be round and it should be an easy job to pop the dampers off and reseat the replacements flush under the springs.

Oh no when I tried to get the dampers off I ended up pulling the whole thing apart

Gladiator J6 Original Ragstone Spring Dampers

Replacements duly turned I also decided to add the quite prominent nuts on the bottom

Gladiator J6 Replacement Spring Dampers
Gladiator J6 Replacement Spring Dampers

I decided it would be easier to just assemble the dampers onto some new pins and then fit them to the springs and hangers

Gladiator J6 Replacement Spring Dampers
Gladiator J6 Replacement Spring Dampers

Gladiator J6 Fitting The Brakes

As I mentioned in the Princess Build Post in between punching out rivets which is a little tedious to say the least I have also done a bit more on the brakes for the J6

The brake hangars are single layer etches and being an older hand drawn kit the holes are a bit on the big side for lengths of wire. I also wanted to make the brakes removable so I turned up some hangar brackets cum spacers.

Gladiator J6 Brake spacers

These are soldered to the chassis and the brakes hang off them. 

Gladiator J6 Brake spacers fitted

This meant temporarily re fitting the wheel, and spring hangars (so that the axles didn’t keep falling out.

Gladiator J6 Brake Assembly

Which allowed me to make up the brakes and have them removable. The GA drawing shows that there were turnbuckle type adjusters at the cab end so I knocked a couple up on the mill.

I also fitted the brake cylinders which requited yet another frame spacer to be milled out…. That seems to be a theme at the minute.

Gladiator J6 Brake Cylinders fitted

Gladiator J6 Top coat of paint added this morning

The sun shone again over Wensleydale this morning so I took the advantage to get the top coat of cellulose on the J6.
This is without doubt the best results that I have ever had from rattle can paints. – ‘Clostermann’ cellulose Satin Black

Gladiator J6 Top coat on
Gladiator J6 Top coat on
Gladiator J6 Top coat of paint on
Gladiator J6 Top coat of paint on
Gladiator J6 Top coat of paint on
Gladiator J6 Top coat of paint on
Gladiator J6 Top coat of paint on

Gladiator J6 Then the world turned black!

Then the world turned black.
I had initially primed the tender body a couple of weeks ago when the sun last shone. I took the opportunity of sun here in the dales to get the body primed yesterday afternoon.
I am greatly impressed with the finish of the Clostermans etch Primer. I have used it and the cellulose top coat before but only on loco chassis and you don’t really get the same effect.
It’s also an absolute b***r to light properly for decent photos.
These are my third attempt.

Gladiator J6 Loco Body Primed
Gladiator J6 Loco Body Primed
Gladiator J6 Loco Body Primed
Gladiator J6 Tender Body Primed
Gladiator J6 Tender Body Primed
Gladiator J6 Tender Body Primed
Gladiator J6 Tender Primed

Oops! I Missed a bit

When posting the above about making up the vacuum pipe, I completely forgot to mention the making of the pipe elbows.
 In the past I have used a square file to file a V groove in some tube and then created the bend. This time I thought that I would have a go at doing it with the mill
I set a collet block at 45 degrees using a set square and then used a 3mm end mill to cut the slot.

Milling a V cut out for a right angle bend
Milling a V cut out for a right angle bend
V cut out for a right angle bend
right angle pipe bend
Right angle Pipe bends
Right angle Pipe bends

Gladiator J6 Injectors and Vacuum pipe

Although I still need to finish of the chassis, the body and tender are pretty much complete, so I took the opportunity to return to this build and pipe up the injectors, and fit the vacuum pipe down the right hand side valence.

I had drilled the holes for the pipes and cut lengths of copper wire some time ago, then they were put aside.

Injector castings piped up
Injector castings Pipes bent to shape and cut to length
Injector castings Pipes bent to shape and cut to length
Injector castings Pipes bent to shape and cut to length

The vacuum pipe was surprisingly difficult to photograph with it being so long.

Modified by CombineZP

A Blast from the Past – Gladiator B16-1

I was most surprised to receive a message from Paul Moore this morning to say that he had ended up painting the B16-1 that I built back in 2017 and would I like some photos of the finished model.

I jumped at the offer and here are the photos copyright of the lovely job that Paul has made of the paint job

Photos copyright of Paul Moore and posted with his kind permission.

Gladiator J6 another little job off the list

Although I dressed the backhead a couple of weeks or so ago, I hadn’t managed to get it to fit into the cab before now because the stub of the whistle protruding through the cab roof stopped it from sliding in. One of those little few minute jobs that seem to take forever to get around to…. I finally got to it and the backhead now fits in place as if it was made for it.

Gladiator J6 Backhead fitted in the cab
Gladiator J6 Backhead fitted in the cab
Gladiator J6 Backhead fitted in the cab

Gladiator J6, a bit of milling

After spending a week teaching myself 3D drawing, I was back at the workbench today. I had originally planned to just turn a couple of appropriately sized top hat bushes, file some flats on them where they come together and job done. My recently acquired mill offered more possibilities to make something that at least looks like the original even if it doesn’t attach in the same way. This will be soldered to the cylinder front in between the slide bars, instead of being suspended from a substantial bracket between the frames.

This is my first real item produced with the mill and I am happy with how it turned out.

Milled Expansion link support bracket
Milled Expansion link support bracket
Milled Expansion link support bracket
Milled Expansion link support bracket

This is where it will sit in between the slide bars on the cylinder front. I have added some fastenings to make it look as if it should be there, when it’s ultimately lost in the gloom between the frames.

This is where it will fit.

Gladiator J6 Inside Motion progress – valves almost fitted

Yesterday saw more progress on the motion for the J6, with the valves almost complete.
I still have the arms to make that connect the valve rockers with the expansion link etc. But I am pleased that I have got this far as I had hit a bit of a mental brick wall with concern that attempts at soldering on the valve rocker supports would result in them dissolving into individual parts again.

As happens often when procrastinating, I worried for nothing.

Gladiator J6 Overhead Valves
Gladiator J6 Overhead Valves

Gladiator J6 – Boiler Back plate dressing

While I am distracted with outside jobs during the good weather, I have been working on another of the key outstanding jobs that is simple to pick up and put down. The back head/plate, is as I mentioned earlier in the build, a GNR Boiler Back Plate set from LG Miniatures. It wasn’t quite deep enough so I added a strip of thick brass along the bottom. Also missing from the set as delivered, were the injectors. Laurie includes a layout drawing in the set and it showed the missing injectors. An enquiry to Laurie had an apology and a pair of injectors in the post.

I am not sure if they were from the GNR set or another more generic pair but a little bit of scratch building had them looking the part. I had to fabricate one of the levers for the right hand injector from a .9mm rod with one end squashed and drilled out for the pin and then tapered with a file in the mini drill (too small to old securely in the lathe).

In the end I only used one of the hand wheels from the set because they came with cast stems on them and I wanted to fit them to the stem already present on the castings so I used some cast hand wheels from the spares box which had holes in the centres. Had I not had them to hand I would have cut the stems of the castings and drilled them for the ones with the cast stems but it would have been a bit tedious.

J6 Backhead
J6 Backhead

The GA showed some kind of inline valve down the right hand side of the cab at the side of the back plate so I knocked one up from a couple of bits of tube and a cast handwheel from the set.

J6 backhead – scratchbuilt inline valve

My apologies for the greenish tinge it’s reflections from the green storage box that I propped it against for the photos.

Gladiator J6 further work on the inside motion

Modelling time this last week has seen me back on the J6. I have been making progress with the inside motion starting with soldering the front of the slide bars to the cylinder front and then removing the motion bracket and moving it backwards to match the drawing in order that it would then clear the front horn guides.

Motion bracket and cylinder front joined together with the slide bars

Getting them square to each other was a little challenging so I cut a couple of rectangles of 10thou sheet to set both the distance between the cylinder front and the rear of the motion bracket and keep them square at the same time. I used a couple of aluminium hair grips to hold them in place while I soldered the ends of the slide bars to the motion bracket.

I still need to plot out and drill holes for the support rods for the expansion links in the cylinder front.

I still need to plot out and drill the cylinder front for the support rods.

I have temporarily assembled most of the motion but I still need to add the parts to the motion bracket which support and operate the valves.

Motion parts temporarily assembled
Motion parts temporarily assembled

Having extended the clearance between the cylinder front and the motion bracket so that the cylinder front sits in front of the horn guides, I found that the slide bars still fouled the horn guides. T next task was to reduce the depth of the front horn block in the lathe so my four-jaw chuck got a turn. Because I only wanted to effectively face them off. I cheated a little and fitted a short length of 3/16” silver steel into the tailstock, slipped a bearing on and used that to quickly centre the four jaw.

Front Hornblocks reduced in depth on the lathe

The next task is to remove a section of the horn guides to clear the slide bars.

Hornguides now need reducing to suit.

As soon as funds allow, I plan to buy a mill to compliment the lathe and boy would a mill make this task easier. I can see now why Nick plans his inside motion fitting as he builds the frames. A lesson learned for the future! Onwards and upwards as they say.

Gladiator J6

One of the few remaining details to add to the body are the injectors which sit under the footplate tucked away behind the cab steps. From all the photos that I have of J6’s seeing what they actually look like is a real problem. Then I remembered that I had taken a few photos of the Injectors on the side of the preserved J52 while it lived at Shildon.

While I have a couple of good side views they don’t show the pipes and how they fit.

Then by pure chance I was looking through some photos that I took in the dark hall at York and found that I had indeed taken photos of each end

By cross referencing these with the end that’s visible on some better lit J6 photos I was able to confirm to my satisfaction that these are the same type of injector fitted to the J6 Now all I need to do is work out how to scale them to size – Despite taking quite a few shots at both locations none of them are side on allowing scaling from a known dimension.

The case of the missing Globe Lubricators

Modelling time has been in a bit short supply so far this week but I have managed a few bits and pieces. The key one being, on the back of a delivery of a second set of globe lubricator castings for the J6, I got them fitted. I had to order some more because I have misplaced the first lot but I am sure that they will turn up in due course…

Gladiator J6 Globe Lubricators

Still a bit of cleaning up to do under there.

Globe Lubricators on the Gladiator J6

Gladiator J6 Crank Axle

In between adding bits to the GCR Tank, After drilling and pinning the cranks which was thankfully uneventful. I cut out the axle in between the crank webs and refitted the connecting rods. I had to file a little of the sides of one one the connecting rods but very quickly all was rotating smoothly. So much so that I made a short video. Sadly my camera didn’t focus too well on my hands but you get the idea.

https://youtu.be/gvvgu-ix_GM

Gladiator J6, Soldering of the Crank Axle

Today has been a brilliant day on quite a few fronts but the main one being that I successfully soldered the crank axle up without any issues.

I followed advice given to me by fellow modeller Nick Dunhill, which was to use Bakers Fluid as the flux to solder to the steel axle, to replace the piece of steel rod provided to line up the cranks and eccentric with a length of similar diameter brass rod which being more flexible allows the cranks and eccentrics to be squashed tighter together and positioned better. And finally, to wrap wet tissue around the eccentric sheaves to stop the soldered end coming adrift with the heat.

It couldn’t have gone any smoother, I spent some time making sure they were all lined up correctly and orientated against one of the flat edges of the axle end. I grip the other end in a biggish pin vice applied the Bakers fluids from a bulb type dropper and some short lengths of 180 solder curled slightly around the axle either side of the cranks then gently applied heat with the microflame until the solder flashed. While it was cooling I couldn’t resist moving the eccentrics slightly to make sure that they hadn’t become solid.

All was well Phew!!!

J6 Crank Axle Soldered up
J6 Crank Axle Soldered up
J6 Crank Axle Soldered Up

Next job is clean them up and then before cutting out the section of axle I think that I am going to drill and pin the cranks. I know that Nick doesn’t bother as they aren’t under any real load but I think that I will be belt and braces for this my first go.

Getting Jiggy with Eccentric Sheaves

A post on a few forums by Nick Dunhill on his build of a Rhymney Railway R class on preparing the eccentric sheaves couldn’t have been timelier.

I am just at that point so the night before last I made up a similar jig from a couple of bits of wood that I had on the bench and having consulted the GA for the length of the sheave I marked up and drilled a hole for the pin (a 0.8mm drill bit). Finally, I filed and soldered up the first sheave. Last night I managed a couple more.

Gladiator J6 Eccentric Sheaves Sizing Jig
Inside Motion Eccentric Sheaves – for Gladiator J6
Inside Motion Eccentric Sheaves – for Gladiator J6