Connosseur LSWR Brake van – Missed from the last post…

After all that I forgot to add that I also turned some replacement buffer stocks. Those familiar with Jim’s kits will know that to keep costs down Jim provides whitemetal buffers which can be sprung but it involves fitting a piece of spring wire through the back of the coupling hook and then to the rear of the buffers. Although I used this method on a few of my early builds having broke one of the cast heads of a buffer rather put me off the idea so now I add sprung buffers and I usually solder the coupling hook solid.

I had some spare buffer heads (kindly supplied by our very own Mr Moss as when received from NER Days they were unusable without further machining which Mossy isn’t equipped to do) which are fitted with 10ba nuts so the shank is a bit thicker than the 12 or 14ba that most comercial wagon buffers are fitted with. I did drill out one of the white metal buffer stocks and I did make it ft but the walls were very thin. I decided to turn replacements from some 14″ nickel rod. Although the finished dimensions were the same as the whitemetal examples the nickel replacements are much more substantial.

LSWR Brake Van Buffers

So now The van just needs these fitting, some sand pipes and coupling chains and a good clean up before painting.

More Connoisseur LSWR Brake Van Brake Rod knitting

On Bank Holiday Monday I took the one to be finished along to Harrogate show and again made excellent progress despite chatting to lots of people.

What I hadn’t realised at Redcar show is that although I had assembled parts 23,24, 25 and 26 into a sub unit and dry fitted fitted them I hadn’t actually soldered them in the second van. Sadly when I piked the van up to pack it away the sub assembly must have dropped off asI couldn’t find it at home when I discovered it’s was missing.

So I ended up scratch building a new sub assembly to replace the missing one.

I fitted a floor and then fitted the subassembly before fitting the rodding. Having prepared the parts before I went to Harrogate I did all the assembly during the show so didn’t get any photos of the subassembly after I put it together or without the rods in place. I replaced the two part etched crank with a piece of 10ba threaded rod (I have a number of short lengths from where I have shortened 1″ screws) with a wrap around that better represents the real thing.

LSWR Brake Van Brake Rodding
LSWR Brake Van Brake Rodding
LSWR Brake Van Brake Rodding
LSWR Brake Van Brake Rodding

Although there is a plan view of how the brake rods fit the small fitting that fits the upper rod to the bottom of the van isn’t provided so I knocked a couple up from scrap etch. Bending and soldering those last two short upper sections of rodding in place really challenged the patience and it’s a good job I was in public or I may have expanded my Anglo Saxon dictionary…

Update on the Connoisseur Models LSSWR brake vans

Wow, some time since I touched these. – 2020…

For the last couple of weekends I have been demonstrating brass wagon building at a couple of shows so I took these along to see if I could make some progress on them. Surprisingly I did manage to make quite a bit of progress with both of these now up on their wheels with brake gear fitted. They still need brake rodding added and then details such as buffers etc. – I will take some photos once they are properly dry.

The plan for these was always to sell them when complete to fund something else and now that they are nearing completion I am starting to think about what livery to finish them in.

The good news is that they are now both sold, one as is to be finished by it’s new owner and the second to be finished and painted in a yellow light railway livery.

Here’s where I had got to by the end of Redcar show.

Connoisseur LSWR Brake Van
Connoisseur LSWR Brake Van
Connoisseur LSWR Brake Van

David Andrews Princess Royal – Increasing the swing of the rear truck

All issues of whether the styrene might wear over time aside, even with added weight on the trailing truck, the chassis still wouldn’t go around a 6ft curve reliably so more drastic measures were needed.

Using a piercing saw I cut out part of the inner frames.

DA Princess Rear frame modifications

Then I soldered a plate across the ends of the frames at the front by good fortune there were two tabs at the rear with could be soldered to.

DA Princess Rear frame modifications
DA Princess Rear frame modifications

I then reduced the width of the inner plate and soldered the frame pieces back together with some end plates to take up the gap left by the saw kerf.

DA Princess Inner Frames Narrowed
DA Princess Inner Frames Narrowed

A quick dry fit of the rear truck leaves plenty of space either side of the inner swing so there should be no shorting but I may need to remove some of the spring casting to allow more swing to help it get around the curve – it’s a long chassis.

DA Princess – Shorts, short and more shorts!

Having solved the issue of the wheels touching the upper frame I then discovered that the wheels were touching the inside of the frames when going around a 6ft curve.

DA Princess Still creating shorts!

So I added some styrene insulation either side of the inner frames.

This cured the short problem but running trials revealed that although it would now go around 6ft curve without shorting it didn’t do so reliably without the trailing truck derailing.

In an attempt to cure this I tried introducing some weight on to the trailing truck. I cut a couple of rectangles of lead and using a V block and a couple of different sized rods I created some weights that fit on top of the ruck over the axle.

DA Princess Trailing Tuck Ballast
DA Princess Trailing Tuck Ballast

I was getting low on lead but just this week we have had a couple of chimneys repointed and re-leaded as well as four wet verges I asked the roofer for the lead that they removed so I now have sufficient to see my days out I think.

David Andrews Princess Royal – Still working on the shorts

It’s been getting on for six weeks since my last update on HRH. I haven’t been idle and the process of eliminating shorts has been a journey of education, frustration and determination to not let it beat me.

Starting with a belt and braces approach I remade the drawbar in Delrin.

DA Princess Royal – Delrin Drawbar

Next, having already added insulated washers to the wheels which are insulated at the hub I turned my attention to the driver which are rim insulated. I had previously made inner balance weights from Nickel sheet and although I had stuck them to the wheels with epoxy I was concerned that they be be helping to bridge the insulation gap should they touch the frames. My answer was to remake the balance weights for the insulated side from styrene.

Then I noted that the cross piece pf the rear inner frames was touching the tyres of the rear truck wheels. You can see the plate with the half etched rectangles in the image below.

DA Princess rear frames

A look at the instructions mentions the possible need to remove the half etched sections in case of shorts so the plate was removed and the rectangles removed.

DA Princess Frame plate modification

Sadly, this didn’t cure the problem so in the end I took of the outer sections leaving just the brace in the middle.

DA Princess 2nd Frame Plate Modification

As it turned out that solved one problem but left another which will be the subject of another post