MOK 8F 8425 – Just Like the Realk Thing Tender finished. Or at least the construction is.

Yesterday morning saw the brakes fitted. I did need to make a couple of brake adjusters for two reasons. One being that the suppling casting looked a bit over scale although I can see why, as it’s designed to be fitted in between two upright pieces of etch. The second and ultimately more fundamental is that I only have one of said castings and I need two. I added a piece of rod that fits between a clevis casting and rather than mess about trying to mill flats on something so thin, I elected to squash them in pliers and tidy that up a little with a file.

Brake Slack Adjusters

This shot shows the difference between the casting that I have and the replacements.

Brake Slack Adjusters – Comparison

Plus, the obligatory shot with a 5P piece for scale.

Brake Slack Adjusters – Scale

Those made, it didn’t take long to solder all the brakes up and make it look the part.

Stanier Tender Brakes Fitted
Stanier Tender Brakes Fitted
Stanier Tender Brakes Fitted

Lastly, I made up the JLRT LMS style coupling. Although I managed to get it all together as it should, (without soldering anything up solid), I even made the “tommy bar” moveable. I did have to turn a new pin to go through the top links and the hooks as the casting was just a touch too short

MOK 8F 8425 – The end of the replacement welded tender build feels like it’s in sight.

Today was quite satisfying in so much as I got the brake beams assembled and I also got the new brake cylinder and the front cross shaft fitted which in theory leaves the brakes, the rear coupling and the small etches and pins which fit on the outside of the outer frames adjacent to one end of the springs where they represent the ends of the brake hangers.

The Proxxon mini pillar drill earned its keep drilling all the holes for the link pins on the cross beams.

Brake Cross Beams

Next, I fitted the brake cylinder and the front cross shaft. The shaft and the castings which attach to the brake pull rods are still loose until I work out the correct orientations of them.

Brake Cylinder and Cross shaft fitted

Lastly a close up of the new brake cylinder.

Replacement Brake Cylinder

Making and fitting all these extra parts has renewed my enthusiasm for the build which was waning a little.

MOK 8F 8425 – Still Working On The JLRT Tender

Having sorted the water scoop thoughts turned to the brakes as being the last major items to fit. This is where life got a little interesting. As I mentioned previously the kit is “borrowed” from my Just Like the Real Thing, Rebuilt Scot kit. According to the JLRT instructions, the brakes for the Royal Scot tenders differed from the usual Stanier tenders being much simplified.

Below is a snip from the instructions illustrating the simplified version.

Fortunately, JLRT did provide an etch for the linkages, albeit they didn’t include any cross beams. Presumably this was intended for use with another kit which included a Stanier tender but I can’t think of one in the JLRT range.

This left making up some cross beams. I started with some 2mm brass rod and having cut three lengths I turned a spigot on each end to fit through the holes in the brake hanger castings.

Beginings of Brake Cross Beams

Next, I created a small jig which is essentially a rectangular block to hold the cross beam rods to allow me to machine parallel flats on each end.

Milling Brake Cross Beams

Finally, for the session, I machined a replacement brake cylinder.

Vacuum Cylinder

MOK 8F 8425 – Yes, I’m Still Working On The JLRT Tender

Picking up from my last post, I have been slowly but surely working on the remaining tender details. The upper body is complete with just some small etches to be fitted to the outer chassis plates.

Then on with the fitting out of the inner chassis. First came making up the fun packed water scoop linkages.

JLRT Stanier Water Scoop Linkages

Then the more fun packed threading of them through all the various parts and holes in the inner chassis before soldering things together.

This is where the experience of having already done it once on the MOK tender came in handy. I found it much easier to do second time around because I knew where everything was meant to fit.

Water Scoop linkages fitted to JLRT Stanier Tender
Water Scoop linkages fitted to JLRT Stanier Tender
Water Scoop linkages fitted to JLRT Stanier Tender

My Journey Into Model Gear Cutting Continued

While awaiting the opportunity to make a start on cutting the gears. In spare moments, I have been having a play with the Gear Generator add in, in Fusion 360.

I decided to create myself a working drawing of the Shogun gear replacements that I need and I was quite pleased that Fusion came to the same conclusions about size etc. that helpful fellow modellers (who are far more experienced in the subject than I,) had already worked out.

MOK 8F 8425 – Still working on the JLRT Tender

Still making slow but steady progress on the welded tender. The upper works are now complete and I am in the midst of making up the water scoop linkages. It taken a couple of days to cut all the castings from their sprues and clean them up al the while working out where each bit goes. I think that I have it pretty much figured out now but I still need to double check the front linkage to be sure where it fits.

JLRT Stanier Water Scoop Linkages

Lathe Tool Height Gauge – Made from an old Scribing block

Those with long memories may remember this.

Scribing block

I bought it along with a number of other hand tools which I have subsequently restored over the last year. But I actually bought the job lot on the basis of it containing this. My idea was to make a lathe Tool Height Setting Gauge from it loosely based on the GH Thomas example which is marketed as a kit by Hemingway Kits.

A fellow parish councillor recently gave me a few pieces of steel one of which was perfect for making the two height setting arms.

Lathe Tool Height Gauge
Lathe Tool Height Gauge
Lathe Tool Height Gauge

I have a second ‘arm’ partially made which I will finish off at some point. Finished off with a nice nickel silver thumb screw it works perfectly.

MOK 8F 8425 – More JLRT Tender fun.

While chatting to a friend on the phone last night I said that I wasn’t going to post any more on the tender because it’s really a repeat of what’s gone before on build but then today, I had a hiccup in proceeding so I thought it worth sharing how I got out of it.

The kit provides two of these Windlass castings for the water scoop and brake standard.

JLRT Windlass Casting

As I was cutting the second one off the sprue it pinged off into space and despite searching the workbench top, I couldn’t find it. Having no idea which way it went, I don’t know where to start looking.

So, I decided that it wouldn’t be too big a job to make a couple of replacements to match. Staring with some 1.5mm brass rod I cross drilled it and turned down the end.

The machined spigot prior to parting off

Parting off such a thin piece on the lathe was bound to be a disaster so I opted to cut it off with a piercing saw while it was still held in the collet and… you guessed it, that too pinged off into the swarf and was lost for ever.

Having set everything up it was a few minutes job to prepare some more. This time I played it safe and held the main stock in one pin vice and the part to be cut off in another.

Holding the tiny pieces for parting off

Having established the workflow I decided not only to make the two that I needed but to do a few more for the spares box too. The ones I need for the tender need quite a short stem but I also did some with longer stems just in case I need them for upright brake standards in the future.

Replacement Windlass Handles

Final Refurb of the vintage tool collection.

Back In October 2024 I won a job lot of Engineering tools via eBay. When they arrived I was reasonably certain that they were apprentice pieces all made by the same gent and stamped FC. At the time I cleaned them all up and I restored most of them in terms of parts that were missing. One final piece a sliding curved bevel worked but it wasn’t possible to tighten up or slacken off the thumbscrew. I tried several times in the intervening 11 months but did manage to budge it no matter how aggressive I got, I didn’t manage to budge it. In the end a week or so ago, I just lost patience and hacksawed the thumbscrew off.

I machined up a new thumbscrew and it worked but the stud part looked a bit undernourished so I made a second stud that I was happy with. I also spent a bit of time on the slides to ensure that all the parts move freely along the full length of travel.

Slding Bevel Restoration
Slding Bevel Restoration

My Journey Into Model Gear Cutting Continued

A friend and fellow Guild member fell soft and offered to have a go at 3D printing my 29 hole division plate.

It turned out really well with all the indexing holes fitting perfectly and the main bore just requiring a little scraping with a 3 cornered scraper to enable it to ease onto the shaft.

Had I been quicker on the uptake I might have added the numbers to the STL file before sending it but it only occurred as I was fitting it to the Spin indexer.

For those that don’t know what a Spin Indexer is, this is mine fitted with the 29 hole division plate.

The eagle eyed will note that the label says ‘5C’ 5C is the type of collet what these indexers come equipped to accept as standard. I don’t have any 5C collets nor am I likely to make use of any so when I saw the Spin Indexer offered at a discount price already fitted with a 5C to ER32 collet adapter I decided that I could make wider use of ER32 collets so I bought the indexer and a set of ER32 collets. Since then, I have added an ER32 collet chuck for my lathe so now I can use the ER32 collets in both the lathe and spin indexer alongside my more often used ER25 collets

This means that I am now set up to have a go at cutting the 2 x 29 tooth gears that I need for the Shogun gearboxes. I am still doing carer duties and Chris doesn’t have her stitches out until next Wednesday. So it will probably be later next week before I take the plunge and have a go.

My Journey into Model Gear Cutting Continued

Discussion over on my gear cutting thread on Western Thunder has had input from several members who are experienced in cutting their own gears and part of the discussion was around worm and wheel gear sets. 

We discussed that it is possible to use a length of say M6 x 1.00 threaded stud to make the worm and use an M6 x 1.00 tap in the lathe chuck to cut a wheel with at least one member having done this in the past. having seen this done in a video sometime ago it was of interest. Then I used a thread gauge to check a Roxey Mouldings Worm and Wheel gear set which came with one of their fold up gearboxes. The metric 1.25 thread gauge fits perfectly but the diameter of the worm is 6.3mm so I think that it’s actually more likely to be 1/4″ x 20TPI rather than M6 x 1.25

We also discussed that using a BA profile of 47.5 degrees would be better than using the standard 60 degree of a metric or US imperial thread. Having checked my BA thread chart I was a little surprised to find that 0BA is 6mm and has a 1.0mm thread pitch. The key difference between Oba and M6 is the angle of the teeth being 47.5 as opposed to 60 degrees. I have lots of 6mm bar recovered from scrap printers and toner cartridges so some trials are in order.

My Journey into Model Gear Cutting continued

I have been asked if I will do a ‘gear cutting 101’ for those with little understanding of gearsand gear cutting (I count myself amongst them… ) So I will endeavour to share what I have determined so far.

Gear sizes/measurements come in two flavours (as you might expect) Imperial and Metric. The descriptions for these are:

Involute DP Gear Cutters ( DP standing for Diametral Pitch inch size) These come in two pressure angles 14.5 degrees and 20 degrees

Metric Module (MOD) have a declared pressure angle of 20 degrees.

Each Involute DP or Module set is made up of 8 cutters which perversely, the number for each type is reversed from each other

My Journey into Model Gear Cutting

Having determined with help that the missing final drive gears were MOD 0.3 and that MOD 0.3 is a bit fine for 7mm models I bought from Chronosa set of MOD 0.5 gear cutters.

I also bought a single MOD 0.3 No5 cutter which will cut 26-34 teeth from a company in Japan called Gavan Tools but no great surprise that once despatched and I started tracking it, it was coming direct from Shanghai China. That said, the tracking information provided was excellent and it arrived safe and sound.

This is the same image with a little more contrast to all you to better read the details

My Journey into Model Gear Cutting

In my last post I mentioned that a fellow Guild member had a couple of new boxed examples off the Shogun units. He kindly shared some photos of them which with his permission I will share here so that you can see what we are aiming for in the end.

This is the accompanying data sheet

You will note the bit about a ‘special’ axle. I checked mine and the bushes are under the standard 3/16 axles that we traditionally use so I plan to drill and ream mine out to 3/16 making the drive gear to suit.

My journey into Model Gear Cutting

At Guildex (Stafford) I bought a couple of Tower Models 7mm O Gauge ‘Tower Power’ Shogun 5-Pole Canon Motor w/ Multi-stage Gearboxes. Although I didn’t know that’s what they were at the time, the price was right but I did note that they were each missing their final drive gear. In my view, the Canon Motors and fly wheels alone were worth the £25 each that I paid for them.

Enquiries on Western Thunder and the GOG forums, identified the product as described above and subsequently contacting Tower Models confirmed that there are no spares available.

One member of both forums happened to have a couple of the same gearbox units new and boxed he was very helpful in confirming that the gearboxes or at least his boxes were 25:1 ratio he also counted the number of teeth and confirmed that there were 29.
From further discussion it also revealed that San Cheng who produced them for Tower also used the same gearbox side frames for an 18:1 version of the gearbox using slightly different idler gears.

We ultimately came to the conclusion that the final drive gears are 29 tooth the Module is 0.3 and the diameter of the gear is 9.26mm