Those who read my ramblings may recall my mentioning and showing the build of a DJH LNER A3 that I built a few years ago. I was never really happy with the paint job and Warren Haywood offered to strip and repaint it for me. I received it back from Warren and one of the casualties of the paint strip were the etched cinder guards from the cab side.
There used to be some really nice castings for Cinder Guards available from Hobby Horse but since Simon’s retirement and the business not being sold they are no longer available.
So I decided to have a go at drawing some up. My initial design taken from an A3 GA had the hinges with the two ears either side but looking closely at cab side photos of Flying Scotsman and Green Arrow showed me that they were different on LNER locos at least so I added the two hinges at the bottom of the image.
I plan to get these cast by Mike Hopkins and Chris suggested that I also do some assembled so that I can see what works best in terms of castings – all told I need 7 or 8 sets for various loco kits that I have in my stash.
I decided to do two options of the assembled item
Option one is with the guard in it’s open position at 90 degrees to the cab sideoption two is with them folded back against the cab side. To achieve this I needed to make them handed. I got the idea for having them folded back from fellow member Ian Beattie, who mentioned that he always models them folded back to minimise damage and I thought it a good idea.
I did screen shots for these as the renders were so bright you couldn’t really see anything…. I will share photos of the castings when I get them back from Mike.
After my recent adventures with horse drawn vehicles, I thought that I would have a go at drawing up a spoked wheel. The lack of availability of suitable wheels has been what has held me back in the past from doing more with horse drawn vehicles, which were so much a part of the railway scene in my chosen modelling era. Indeed my paternal grandfather was still delivering milk from his farm via horse and cart in the late 1950’s
The basic wheel and spokes took only a short time to draw up but it then took around an hour and a half to work out how to get the camber on the spokes. I deleted the ring of spokes multiple times before I got there.
Next I made up the underframe and shafts from Plastruct. The
shafts I put in a collet in the lathe and then used a file to taper the end.
Then once I had them both tapered the same I held them together and kept holding
them in boiling water while applying pressure to get them to curve at the ends.
Once happy I stuck them into holes in the ends of the under frame.
What will become housings for the harness rings were made by
wrapping a 5mm wide strip of 10 thou around an off cut of the same plastruct
rod that I made the shafts from and gluing the ends together leaving the piece
removable. I held it in a small hand vice until dry. Once dry it was removed
from the rod, trimmed to size and tested out on the shafts. At this point it
still need to be drilled.
Then I moved back to the body and added beading from 0.8mm half
round Plastruct strip following the photo rather than the drawing fr the
placement of the strips.
Last but not least the seat, the wheels and the springs were
the items that I mentioned that were salvaged from the Brumm model.
Although I have had these printed in resin by kind hearted fellow modellers, I also wanted to see what they would look like in Brass so I asked Mike Hopkins if he would add some to his next set of castings.
I have always fancied building a horse drawn vehicle or two mainly as wagon loads for several Open Carriage trucks that I have on the go. I was put onto the idea by a gent I spoe to at a show a few years ago who subsequently brought me a horse drawn carriage from a company named Brumm. Some of the Brumm carriages fetch crazy amounts of money but I found one that was being sold as scrap for not much more than postage and bought it to salvage the wheels from.
Although my photo is of a Great Northern Railway parcels van, the only drawing I have is for an LNWR example but they are broadly similar. I scaled the drawing on the basis of the wheel size that I planned to use (the Brumm Wheels are slightly bigger diameter than the LNWR drawing).
I drew out the body pieces in Inkscape and cut them out with the silhouette and got this basic body.
Please excuse the colouring of the photos as I had to adjust them to show the white against the white background…
I mentioned in my Parting tool upgrade post that I planned to upgrade the locking clamp for the tailstock too. Like many locking clamps on the Unimat III the locking clamp for the tail stock is an M6 cap screw. It being tucked down the side of the tail stock body it isn’t always convenient to get to. Watching the videos from the GOG virtual shows done by the late David Smith (DLOS) on workshop practice I noted that he had done a similar upgrade and it prompted me to think about it. I finally go to it. As luck would have it I have a small stock of 50mm stainless M6 cap screws. These are only threaded for part of their length so I started by threading one of them along it’s entire length. Not an easy task in stainless but I got there. Next I cut of the head and cut it approximately to length. Then I drilled and tapped a short length of 16mm aluminium bar M6 and turned a 20% taper on the closed end. Having tried to fit it all together so that I could work out the handle length I realised that I had it too tall and it wouldn’t screw past the body of the tail stock. I parted off 5mm and that cured the problem. I screwed it on hand tight an marked where the handle was gong to be and had to change plans again. My initial idea was to use another M6 screw for the handle and make a knob similar to the pinch boss to fit on the end. My test run proved that there just wasn’t enough room for any kind of knob so I was pondering what I might do when I remembered that I had a short length of steel bar in my tool box that I had had for years and it usually found use as a drift so was a little battered on the ends. I faced one end off and turned it down to 5.85mm to thread M6 again it being stainless, made this a bit of fun but once I got it started it wasn’t as hard as threading the screw. Then I decided to taper the rest of it to make a handle shape so I centre drilled the threaded end and used a live centre to support it while I turned the taper. After initially completely forgetting that I needed to turn the topside feed not the carriage feed I ended up with the handle below which I was quite pleased with.
Having cross drilled the pinch boss I assembled it all and it looks like this
This is the unlocked position and a quarter turn locks it
Carried away by this success I have ordered some more 8mm stainless rod to make another to replace the cap screw on the quill lock.
After my efforts to create the lovely safety valve bonnet yesterday I was dismayed when I learned that I had orientated the ellipse at the top in the wrong direction. It should run in line with the boiler….
Today’s first task was sorting that out. All was not lost as I learned a bit more while correcting it and I have an even better end result for my efforts.
Next up I drew up a replacement chimney to the correct dimensions for the Class J and initially I added rivets around the base but Tom alerted me to the fact that the NER used countersunk bolts so nothing was visible on the chimney base after painting. A few steps back on the Fusion timeline removed them. It’s certainly much easier to remove them than to add them…
Although the Class J didn’t have a brass cap to the chimney the drawing that I worked from showed it so I couldn’t resist depicting it on the photos at least.
Finally I drew up a replacement dome so that should draw a line under this particular little project if you will pardon the pun.
After posting my earlier effort at the safety valve bonnet, fellow NERA member Tom Burnham pointed out that I had made an error and the the cover should be oval at the top not round. He kindly provided me with the info to put it right.
3D drawing has been a bit of a distraction from the other things that life has thrown my way recently but I also made a small upgrade to my parting tool holder for the Unimat.
Due it small size I had to buy a mini parting blade and this is what it looks like below
The bit that’s supposed to hold the blade and keep it from moving is this bit, which is for all the world like a bent washer.
After parting a few items off I noted that on some of them the back of the part was actually convex because the cutting force had bent the “washer” and allowed the parting tool to move to one side as it was cutting. Having bought my long length of steel from Wickes I decided that I would look at making something a little sturdier.
This is what I came up with.
The slot is wider than the blade (1.45mm) because my smallest milling cutter at present is 3mm but I do have some brass bar that will fit in the remaining slot should I need to take out any slack.
Here it is fitted.
There is a small shim in between the fixture and the tool holder which helps apply an even pressure. The fixture is thick enough not to bend under pressure and long enough to hold the blade inline with the tool holder without being able to twist while cutting.
Next I plan to make a locking handle for my tail stock. It currently locks via a cap head M6 screw which isn’t always very convenient.
Moving swiftly along from the brake standard modifications. You may recall that some time ago I made a stove for the brake van using my Silhouette cutter. Although I proved it was possible, it was extremely fiddly to assemble and I certainly wouldn’t want to be doing a lot of them.
It’s also a perfect candidate for 3D printing so yesterday morning (after amending the brake standard files) I started to draw up the stove.
It has proved to be my most ambitious and ultimately satisfying design project to date.
My apologies for the image overload but I am delighted at how well it has turned out.
Looking to start adding as much as I could details wise, before
assembling the main components. I dry fitted the tank filler and the vent pipe castings
on the tank top plate. Although the latter are generally not bad castings, when
I opened out the etched holes, they both sat lopsided. I attempted to tidy them
up using a square needle file but wasn’t able to correct the lean.
I decided to have a go at turning them, but gripping them to
turn them in the lathe was going to prove interesting. So, I took a leaf out of
the late David Smith (DLOS)’s book, and made a split collet from a length of aluminium
I had recently watched a YouTube video of someone doing just
that and the guy who made the video had left a collar on his split collet to
make it easier to get it in and out of the lathe collet.
This shot shows how the casting sits in the split collet.
You can see in the shot below how lopsided the base was. The
rim of the base plate was so thin that I dare not turn too much off or I would
have ended up having to turn a collar to replace it. Which was plan B if I hadn’t
been able to get the existing base plate to sit flat
Thankfully I got away with it and didn’t need to resort to plan B.
The recent hot weather has somewhat killed my enthusiasm for actual model making so instead I have been drawing up a few more bits and pieces. Some of them are still work in progress but I finished an LNER Brake standard last night.
I have long wished for a correct LNER brake standard casting so now assuming that it prints okay my wish should be fulfilled.