One of the few remaining details to add to the body are the injectors which sit under the footplate tucked away behind the cab steps. From all the photos that I have of J6’s seeing what they actually look like is a real problem. Then I remembered that I had taken a few photos of the Injectors on the side of the preserved J52 while it lived at Shildon.
While I have a couple of good side views they don’t show the pipes and how they fit.
Then by pure chance I was looking through some photos that I took in the dark hall at York and found that I had indeed taken photos of each end
By cross referencing these with the end that’s visible on some better lit J6 photos I was able to confirm to my satisfaction that these are the same type of injector fitted to the J6 Now all I need to do is work out how to scale them to size – Despite taking quite a few shots at both locations none of them are side on allowing scaling from a known dimension.
Modelling time has been in a bit short supply so far this week but I have managed a few bits and pieces. The key one being, on the back of a delivery of a second set of globe lubricator castings for the J6, I got them fitted. I had to order some more because I have misplaced the first lot but I am sure that they will turn up in due course…
Over on RMweb Mike Edge (of Judith Edge Kits) kindly pointed out that I had the ashpan sides correct but fitted the wrong way around – slope to the rear instead of the front.
I am very grateful for this because it’s an easy fix (already done) and was a detail that I was struggling to find. The GA I have only show’s an outline for the ashpan and all the photos I have the detail is lost in the gloom.
I had forgotten to take photos of them before fitting so taking them off to swap them around gave me the opportunity to do so.
I measured the space where they were to fit and cut a strip of a sheet of 10thou nickel 30.5mm wide. From this strip I cut two pieces each 17mm long. This left a piece approx. 30mm long and I measured 5mm up from each opposite end and then cut the piece diagonally across.
I wasn’t sure that I have described that clearly so I knocked up a sketch in paint.
Once I had all the parts cut out, I placed each bottom edge in my hold and fold approx. 1.5 mm in and gave it as slight bend and then solder them together in handed pairs to give each ashpan side as below.
Today I rechecked the motor and gearbox on the centre axle
with all the other axles in place. Sadly, it was as I feared, the tight fit of
the motor in the boiler area pushed the compensation beam down and left the
chassis rocking on the centre axle. So back to plan A fitting it on the rear
axle and cutting into/the brake cross beam.
Before doing anything drastic I took time out to knock up some ashpan sides and they have cured the gearbox visibility issue.
That still left the gear touching the brake cross beam so I bit the bullet and cut a section out of it.
In between adding bits to the GCR Tank, After drilling and pinning the cranks which was thankfully uneventful. I cut out the axle in between the crank webs and refitted the connecting rods. I had to file a little of the sides of one one the connecting rods but very quickly all was rotating smoothly. So much so that I made a short video. Sadly my camera didn’t focus too well on my hands but you get the idea.
A weak area of the kit which to be fair is admitted to in the instructions is the cab roof. It’s half etched and as a result besides being very thin it also has a tendency to curl in the wrong direction for the curve of the cab. I wanted the roof to be removable so I did exactly the same on this one as I did on mine.
After fitting the curved ribs that are supplied, I cut a
smaller piece of 10 thou nickel to fit inside between the ribs to add strength
and I also added a couple of rain strips from 1mmx1mm brass angle which
conveniently hides the holes left by etched slots.
There are not many more bits of etch to add before I get to
adding the castings and final details.
Having looked at it for a couple of days I felt that the second runner wagon looked a little bare so I knocked up another toolbox and I added some hardware to them all. It’s starting to come together now. A friend has just sent me some spare ‘Crane Runner’ transfers so I now have enough to do both runners (assuming that I can get them to fit of course.
I am still undecided as to whether to line the counterbalance weight on the crane because the gears on the crane itself will prevent me being able to add any lining around the frame if indeed they were actually lined.
A few tools and lumps of timber and some weathering will bring it all together.
Things have been quietly progressing with the Class 5A and
the number of etched parts is diminishing.
The other thing I have been considering is the motor
position and I have been trialling fitting it to the middle axle which would
remove the need to chop some out of the brake cross beam.
By nibbling some of the boiler/firebox former away it has
allowed the motor to slip inside and run without any apparent issues. What I am
not sure of yet, because I still have to test it, is whether it affects the movement
of the compensation beams.
There isn’t a great deal of room for movement in there so I
need to test it before making a final decision.
In my quest to clear the
workbench of it’s long time inhabitants I took stock of what was needed to
finish the crane and runner/match wagons. It turned out that to do the bare
bones of the build they only actually needed buffers and couplings. Then I
recalled why the build had stalled. The buffers and couplings that came with
the kit were a bit of a ‘hotch potch’ of different makes/types. I bought it
second hand so I am not sure which of them might have been included originally.
There were a couple of different
type of white metal buffer stocks and a nice set of Slaters cast brass RCH
pattern buffers but there were only three buffer heads. There were buffer
heads/springs and retaining nuts. The trouble was that the springs were
a bit bigger than the normal springs that Slaters and other supply.
I had a look in my spares box
and managed to find three complete sets of Buffer stocks, one set NER, One set
GNR and one set LNER. Which I thought would be typical of a railway company
using whatever wagon was available to use as runner wagons for the crane.
Again, there was a mixture of
couplings so I sorted out three assorted sets and added them.
It was at this point that I asked
for assistance on the LNER forum as to what colour mobile hand cranes would
have been painted by the LNER. I didn’t get a definitive answer but the
suggestion was that they might have been lined black the same as the steam
Armed with this, I masked them
up and painted them black. At this point I thought that the runner wagons were
a bit plain so I made up some toolboxes from coffee stirrers and added them to
what was to become the leading runner wagon.
I couldn’t resist posing them with a shabby NBR van and one of the NER brakes to simulate a breakdown train.
Still some way to go before I
and happy with them.
The Road van was painted at the same time as the brake vans but I held off posting photos because they formed part of the GOG virtual show’s lockdown models display. The show was held today so I am not taking anything away from it by adding them to my threads.I enlisted Chris’s help to paint the curved arrows on the plate above the brake hand wheel
Finally I was asked by a friend to take photos of both bogie vans together.
For those not familiar with it the LMS van is the Dragon Models Lancashire and Yorkshire 30 ton Bogie van now with TaffVale Models.
Today has been a brilliant day on quite a few fronts but the main one being that I successfully soldered the crank axle up without any issues.
I followed advice given to me by fellow modeller Nick Dunhill, which was to use Bakers Fluid as the flux to solder to the steel axle, to replace the piece of steel rod provided to line up the cranks and eccentric with a length of similar diameter brass rod which being more flexible allows the cranks and eccentrics to be squashed tighter together and positioned better. And finally, to wrap wet tissue around the eccentric sheaves to stop the soldered end coming adrift with the heat.
It couldn’t have gone any smoother, I spent some time making sure they were all lined up correctly and orientated against one of the flat edges of the axle end. I grip the other end in a biggish pin vice applied the Bakers fluids from a bulb type dropper and some short lengths of 180 solder curled slightly around the axle either side of the cranks then gently applied heat with the microflame until the solder flashed. While it was cooling I couldn’t resist moving the eccentrics slightly to make sure that they hadn’t become solid.
All was well Phew!!!
Next job is clean them up and then before cutting out the section of axle I think that I am going to drill and pin the cranks. I know that Nick doesn’t bother as they aren’t under any real load but I think that I will be belt and braces for this my first go.
I managed to get the sand pipes fitted and then moved on to fitting the motor to the chassis and testing within the body.
On this there is good news in that I should be able to squeeze in the brake cylinder albeit that to avoid the plunger pickup I will have to fit it to the rear of the frame spacer instead of the front but at least it will be there.
Then there is bad news. Brian has provided a really nice ABC motor/gearbox unit. Sadly, the kit is designed for a can motor with simple gears mounted to a frame spacer. The motor gear box will fit into the boiler area no problem but where it does cause an issue is that it interferes with the rear brake cross beam which I think I am going to have to cut.