The sun shone here in Wensleydale yesterday morning and this morning so I was able to get a blast of primer on the brake van.
I had run out of Clostermanns so I used Halfords that I had to hand. I am quite pleased with the finish
The sun shone here in Wensleydale yesterday morning and this morning so I was able to get a blast of primer on the brake van.
I had run out of Clostermanns so I used Halfords that I had to hand. I am quite pleased with the finish
Another session at the bench yesterday saw the remaining brake van ready for paint. With the addition of the final details such as buffer stocks, sandpipes and guard irons added.
Having finished the Princess I have promised my good lady that the 8F (which she bought me in 2010 would be the next loco to be finished. So in the spirit of things I took the pretty much complete tender and the loco chassis along to Stafford so that I had something to talk to people about in between dealing with the modelling competition and the Sunday display of members models.
I was surprised but not too dismayed when three separate people advised me that 8F’s didn’t have water pick up gear fitted. I say not too dismayed because I have no intention of taking it apart to remove the water scoop and associated fittings and it will solve a little niggle that I have had since deciding to model 8425. 8425 had a welded tender and Dave Sharp does provide sides/rear plates to make up a riveted tender when originally building the tender to be for an LNER 06 I chose the riveted sides. I never felt confident that I could remove the riveted sides and fit the welded ones and as I couldn’t find the welded ones I feared that I may have cut them up and used the metal to make other parts.
Fast forward to about a month ago, while looking for something else, I found that by good fortune I did keep the welded side overlays. Also in the stash as mentioned on Nick’s current build thread, I have a JLRT Rebuilt Scot. So I intend to swap the tenders and use the Scot tender built without the water scoop and fittings with the MOK welded sides which are a perfect fit when dry fitted over the JLRT etches.
I have made a small start this evening and I thought I might have to make a new anvil for m rivet punch but it seems I had already made one for smaller spaced rivets so that was a bonus.
A few photos of the state of play before I strip her down and pack her up for painting.
Well, I got there at last. Her Royal Highness will now go around 6ft curves without derailing or shorting.
I did have to introduce some springing to restrict the movement of the bogie.
There are two spring wires at the rear which fit between the inner and outer bogie frames. They restrict the sideways movement of the rear of the bogie. The bogie pivot point has side control springs which allow more movement at the front of the bogie. This sort of worked but the front of the bogie was so light that it had a tendency to lift of the track so I added a second element of springing which holds down the front of the bogie and all runs nicely. This spring has a loop which is held in place by the pivot screw then bends over the front of the plate that you can see in the image below before curving onto the front of the bogie frame. Although it looks huge in the enlarged image it’s only 0.5mm spring wire.