Another day spent mostly drawing up the internals. I have now finished them apart from drawing up a stove and oven – more on that later. I have moved all the drawings from their original files/layers to fit on to two drawings each with a single layer for cutting. The first will be cut from 10 thou styrene and the second 20 thou.
The plan was to cut them this morning but that’s gone by the wayside after discovering that the pack of styrene sheet that I have with me only contains the stuff that is too thick to go through the cutter… I have lots of it in storage so I am not going to buy any more, I will just crack on with other things until I can go out again. I did get the veranda end fitted last night though so the next job is to add the canvas to the roof.
You may be getting overloaded with photos showing minute levels of progress. This is because I am also taking the opportunity to play about with my new camera and it’s ability to be remote controlled via wifi. Finally for this post, a return the stove and oven discussion. Slaters do a really nice cast pot bellied type stove which I have used in a few of my builds but it’s to an LMS design (I think). The LNER stoves are completely different being flat planes – see the snip below.
While having an online discussion with a friend he mentioned that he had GA’s for the LNER stove and oven should I have a desire to make one. He duly sent them over and now has come the time to at least draw one up. I will probably do it in Inkscape but it might even be the push needed to get me to learn to draw in 3D so that I could print a master for subsequent casting.
This is a bit of an instructional post so for some readers it may be granny and eggs but if not I hope that it helps at some point.
In my experiences with plastic wagon kits from such as Slaters and Parkside (Peco) the way that they do the corners sometimes leaves a little to be desired (or more realistically fettled). The designer attempts to make not only the corner timbers marry up but also the corner strapping where fitted too. When making my own design of wagons via the Silhouette cutter I always make the iron work as 10 thou overlays.
I digress, having got as far as fitting the first of the outer Veranda partitions at first try there was a gap of around half a mil or more.
That shown above is the other end which is still to fettle. This is the end that I have done and it does fitt cleanly when pushed into place it was just difficult to get it perfectly in place and take a photo of it.
To achieve this snug fit I had to file scrape and otherwise nibble away at the two bits highlighted on both edges of the partition.
I had most of the day at the bench today and to be honest there doesn’t look much to show for it at present. I have progressed the drawings for the internals quite a bit though.
I spent some time measuring and scribing the planking on the floor and also on the underside of the roof – yes I know that you can see it unless you turn it upside down but I know it’s there…. I did manage to get the inner ends and one side on the cabin after dressing the sides with duckets, lamp and grab rails.
This build has slowed down a little because when reviewing the two GA’s that I have and some photos that I took of an LNER brake van at Grosmont on the NYMR a few years ago, all of them have fully timber panelled doors whereas the Slaters kit depicts a 4 paned window in the door. At first I was going to just cut out the framing and fit a panel in the upper part of the door (and I will do that at one end) but being me I decided that I would have a door at one end open so I am just about to start carving the door out of one of the ends.
In between cleaning rust of my modelling tools I have done a little more at the drawing and will add a little more explanation.
First I will give the key to the line colours. You can draw the lines in any colour you want, it makes no difference as long as you know what you want from each line. The colours control the cut once you import the drawing into Silhouette Studio but more on that when we get there. Crimson Red lines are lines that I will cut all the way through. Dark Red lines will also be cut all the way through but ensure that the cutter blade makes a separate cut for these lines rather then them being a continuation of the crimson lines – in this case they are the tops and bottoms of the window cut outs. If you draw the windows as a square/rectangle they will cut fine most times but occasionally the cut tries to go go around the corner and you get some rounding so when I remember I do it long hand with four separate lines to make up the rectangle or square. As long as they are the same size you one need to do the one as you can select all the four sides and duplicate them to create more window openings without having to redraw them. Green lines are score lines which will only be cut deep enough to show them as plank lines etc. I also use dashed blue lines for marking where things are to be placed (such as strapping or end posts on wagons) but I don’t need any on this particular drawing. Also note that Slaters have glazing in the upper half of the door whereas the GA has it planked so I will need to modify that when I start the build.
Finally the prospect of getting a workbench up and running looms. Hopefully by the end of next week i should be seriously thinking about getting a temporary workbench set up. With the current lockdown extended it’s probably going to be a garden bistro table with a makeshift plywood top and a garden chair to sit on but it’s better than nothing.
I have a limited number of potential victims to hand to get back into the swing of things. It’s a toss up between this and one of Jim’s LNER Bogie Brick wagons. I won’t be able to make a final decision on what I can build until I dig in the depths of the shed and see what modeling tools I managed to bring with me.
What I know I don’t have, is access to my library. But I do have digital general arrangement drawings for the D61 brake van but only a couple of photos of the brick wagon so if I have glue etc. I am leaning towards the Brake van.
In anticipation, this evening I opened the box and scanned the sides and cabin ends so that I can use the GA drawings to draw up and cut an interior with the Silhouette cutter. That should keep me out of mischief for a few nights until I get the WB in action.
Since my last posting, far too long ago! I have taken early retirement and we have moved from Wakefield into the Yorkshire Dales, to a little village called Newton-le-Willows. Situated not far from Bedale (not to be confused with the town of Newton-le-Willows in Lancashire).
I am sure that we are not the first or the last to have what they buy as having a little work to be done turns into a major project. We have now been here for just over 6 months and only now are we approaching having the main living accommodation complete. I say that as the house is a bungalow with a downstairs. The downstairs element comprises the front door, a hallway, a cloakroom/utility and the former garage which has been converted into a study and hobby room for my modelling. It’s this downstairs bit that won’t be complete but the upstairs “bungalow” bit will all be done – just six more doors to shorten and hang.
One of the main things that attracted us to the house was the views and the fact that over the back fence is the Wensleydale Railway (currently closed due to Covid-19 of course). Below are a couple of shots of passing traffic….
Fingers crossed, next week should see me with some kind of modelling workbench up and running. The bench itself will be a garden table and what I will build will largely depend on what I have to hand since most of our belongings are in storage 7 miles away on Layburn which in the current lock down may as well be on on the moon. Still I have a couple of kit’s to hand so I will see what can be done.
This posting is a little bit of a surprise because I wasn’t expecting to do much with it. I have been using this kit when I demo loco building at shows, I would rather take one of my kits along than one that I am building for someone else just in case anything happens to it. Up to Saturday I had only managed to cut out the frames, remove the cusps and bend up the frame spacers (at Newton Aycliffe Show in March) due to being far too busy talking to people. Although I did have lots of interest I seemed to really crack on with it after showing one gent how to solder up the boiler. This build will get updated intermittently because I will be only working on it at shows until it’s well on its way. I think that this amount of progress in between talking to people really is a testament to Jim McGeown and the quality of the kit/fit of the parts.
I didn’t take my rolling bars along nor did I have anything thicker than a scriber. So to roll the smokebox wrapper I had to sit and bend the etch between fingers and thumbs. Working steadily away until it reached the right shape.
Life has got in the way so modelling has taken a bit of a back seat for some time. However last weekend I did manage to do a bit and in between painting seats for the Kirk twin set I assembled some Silhouette cut coach sides for a GWR Director Saloon that I cut out back in January.
Having got the Beer wagons finished I don’t seem to have much to show for recent modelling session until now. Last weekend after teaching my car to swim in a flood or two I made some visible progress on the Kirk twins. Rain strips fitted – very topical, step boards fitted both from Evergreen strip which comes in longer lengths than the equivalent Plastruct and is just long enough for the 51 footers. I am not sure what I will use for the 4 60′ corridor coaches I have in the stash. I also sorted out the articulation between the coaches and made top hat bush to set the centre ride height.
Now all I need to do ir remember where I put the turnbuckle castings for safe keeping after drilling them out and I can crack on with the remaining underframe detailing.
Over on RMweb Mark Tatlow mentioned the clack valves on the side of the boiler on the Barney and made me realise that the misshapen blob was supposed to represent themThis is the blob that I refer to:[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7832/39851133783_eeaeab0d9b.jpg[/img]
Having had it pointed out I had to do something about it. Mark had pointed me at some castings by Alan Gibson but I figured that they couldn’t be too difficult to make a pair and although a little fiddly they were fairly easy to do.
They comprise, a couple of brass track rivets, two etched washers and 0.7+0.8mm brass rod. First I drilled through the rivets to take the .8mm rod and then with the thick end of the rivet held in a pin vice I used the Proxxon pillar drill to spot drill and then drill through one side of the narrower section. I then soldered a length of .8mm rod through the centre with a stub sticking out of the narrow end. Then I soldered a length of 0.7mm through the hole in the side threaded on the washer and soldered that. I scraped the misshapen lumps away with a scalpel and then drilled the boiler side finally bending the 0.8mm rod to shape and using a tiny piece of 100 degree I wafted the microflame over the clack until the solder melted and it was in place.
The Slaters Wagons are finally complete and although I have enjoyed the building of them I am glad that they are finished and will be delivered to their owner next weekend at Bristol Show. They are to be used on a Layout called Hobson’s Brewery, hence the faint ‘ALE’ branding on the cattle wagons. Here are the official portraits of each van.
Sadly Paul Barlett informs me that running number B68501 belongs to a steel mineral….but I am sure that I took the numbers from the ranges supplied in the Slaters instructions – all things BR not being my strong point.
Minor health issues this week have stopped play for a few days so it was only last night when I made more progress. The open wagon is well on it’s way now and it just needs the trestle bar and final details. I also need to work out just how to spring the buffers because they are turned brass heads that are designed for springing with a piece of piano type wire passing between them and the coupling hook tail.
Aside from the buffers it’s a lovely kit to build with everything fitting as and where it should.
Having spent all my Christmas break building things for other people I decided to take a day out to build something for me. I had a look in my kit stash and came up with a Gladiator kit for a GCR 10 ton Open Wagon which Chris bought me from Geoff Stratford just before he sold Gladiator To David and Trisha Hill.
So far it has been excellent to build with all parts fitting as they should and the only bits of fettling were to remove the ends of the sole bars to enable them to fit under the bottom of the buffer plank.